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Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,029 total · 8/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


Pretty fun route with a thin and difficult crux right at the start. The start might be difficult to protect on lead so be careful. After the initial thin section; great and varied FUN finger crack to practice finger jams the rest of the way to the juggy roof move at top!


This route is the obvious vertical crack with a small roof about 10 feet up. Take the walk off the same as Hans Soloing!


If leading; take THIN gear up to 2 inches plus larger cams for an anchor on top. Recommend climbing Hans Soloing and setting up a top rope if not confident at the grade?? Also watch for some thin and fragile holds at the start.


John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10- PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10- PG13
bring micro stoppers for the start- without them, its a solo. Oct 9, 2007
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ PG13
The start protects well, there's a #2 down low and you can stick in a small stopper equalized with a purple C3 before you commit to the hard moves. It's a cruiser after that. Jan 2, 2008
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
I thought the start protected fine with a small stopper. You have a good stance to place a stopper above the roof before you pull it. May 28, 2010
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Agree a lot with Doug. You have a stance to place two small stoppers (in my case, a #1 dmm and an offset brassy of about the same size that are both bomber) before pulling anything hard. Then as soon as you do, you pull through till they're at your feet and you have another great stance to place a #1 red c3. I don't think this is pg13 and thats coming from someone that has just barely broken into the 5.10 trad range. Dec 21, 2017

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