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Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Larry Ferber and Lesley Tarleton
Page Views: 786 total, 6/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the very obvious thin crack going up through the dead center of this section of the crag. The crux is half way up the route on some thin finger jams and face holds. Good route but somewhat serious lead as gear can get thin and its sometimes hard to see your placements and some of the rock might be suspect. Climb with soft sandstone technique and get extra placements in wherever possible. Fun!

Location

Climb the obvious thin crack up the center of this face; the route has a basketball sized hueco just barely to the right of the crack about 10 feet off the ground.

Protection

Trad lead with an emphasis on small pieces (ballnuts, thin cams, brass wires, etc). There are no bolts but sometimes there are slings on the tree at cliff top for rappeling. Walk off is a pretty easy option too; just walk off as "Aliens Have Landed".
Manderson198
  5.9 PG13
Manderson198  
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this with today with Alyse. The route was okay, but nothing more. Protection was plentiful, but somewhat tricky. None of the moves were that difficult, but the rock quality in some places was suspect at best. Rusty red/white sandstone edges don't inspire the most confidence. That being said, if you're comfortable at the grade, this is a decent lead to work on your Red Rock non-varnished sandstone head game. Look for subtle feet!

Also, there are chains at the top, so no need to belay/rappel from the tree. Oct 4, 2015
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.9
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.9
The pro is very acceptable on this excellent pitch, but you can't expect to just plug and go. Stopper placements are plentiful, small cams also, but it's thoughtful climbing. When the black rails run out, in the middle, there's some fragile rock to deal with as well. Still, a very enjoyable climb. It would be simple to toprope. Apr 8, 2009
Good as TR solo. Easy to reach top by walking down from base of Classic Corner. Top of route is to the left of rappel bush as you look out East. Jan 21, 2009