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Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 884 total, 7/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Another route with a crux at the start but this route is pretty fun too! Make sure you get good gear in before the roof moves into the thin crack. There is some slight run-out on the face above but just look for some good horizontal placements. Good Route!!

Location

This fun route is about 20 feet to the right of "Aliens Have Landed" at a right-facing corner under a small overhand. Pull the overhand and follow this crack and face to the top and use standard walk off descent!

Protection

Trad rack with an emphasis on some THIN gear; especially some brass nuts and lowe balls. There is NO fixed gear so take some large cams for the anchor on top. There are some fragile holds so use caution and climb soft!
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
Protected this fine without anything too tiny. Single set of cams from 0.1-2 I think. Also slung some chicken heads on the way up. Built the anchor up top just like Nick, by slinging two fat chicken heads. Walk off back then left down the gully. Oct 7, 2014
Nice climb. The gear was a bit on the small side at times, but it didn't strike me as especially thin. I don't own any lowe balls and didn't put in anything smaller than a #4 bd nut.
Anchored by slinging two stout chickenheads and putting in one piece (can't remember 100%, pink tricam maybe) May 15, 2011