Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey 1978, FA Direct: (TR) unknown 1979
Page Views: 563 total · 4/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This is on the separate, left section of the crag.
Start on the right side, move up and left to the crack. Move left at the roof, then up to where moves can be made right, to the crack. Follow it to the top.
The direct route is 5.11c, top rope.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10
Richard Shore  
  5.10
I thought this route was great! Some spice down low, with some very thin moves up to and left under the roof. The only thing keeping you off the ground here is a #0 TCU below your feet. Above this, some fun steep jamming and jugs lead to the top. Well worth a visit if you're in the area or looking for something new. Nov 20, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Instead of coming in from the right, go up the thin seam for some added hard moves... how hard? Good question. 5.10+ or so? Pro would be real thin on lead. I've always been a TR hero every time I've been over there.

The direct direct 11c way above the roof is silly hard. I'm saying something has broken above the roof. It's desperate and this time out, a demoralizing shut down for me. We used to call the direct direct The Middle Hand of Darkness. (in fact, I'll add it as a route right now...) Apr 14, 2014
Matt Hagny
  5.10c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c
Before the crux, I had a 00 Wild Country (grey) and two BD X4 offsets, all within a few inches of each other (the last piece of gear was too far down and right to do any good at that point, so I really needed something) Only then was I willing to commit to that spooky crimping & stemming move. After that, it's pretty chill. Fun route! Oct 3, 2018