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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uhh Cult, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uncle Fester's Poodle Fart T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey 1978, FA Direct: (TR) unknown 1979
Page Views: 534 total · 4/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is on the separate, left section of the crag.
Start on the right side, move up and left to the crack. Move left at the roof, then up to where moves can be made right, to the crack. Follow it to the top.
The direct route is 5.11c, top rope.


Standard Rack.


Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
I thought this route was great! Some spice down low, with some very thin moves up to and left under the roof. The only thing keeping you off the ground here is a #0 TCU below your feet. Above this, some fun steep jamming and jugs lead to the top. Well worth a visit if you're in the area or looking for something new. Nov 20, 2011
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Instead of coming in from the right, go up the thin seam for some added hard moves... how hard? Good question. 5.10+ or so? Pro would be real thin on lead. I've always been a TR hero every time I've been over there.

The direct direct 11c way above the roof is silly hard. I'm saying something has broken above the roof. It's desperate and this time out, a demoralizing shut down for me. We used to call the direct direct The Middle Hand of Darkness. (in fact, I'll add it as a route right now...) Apr 14, 2014
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
Before the crux, I had a 00 Wild Country (grey) and two BD X4 offsets, all within a few inches of each other (the last piece of gear was too far down and right to do any good at that point, so I really needed something) Only then was I willing to commit to that spooky crimping & stemming move. After that, it's pretty chill. Fun route! Oct 3, 2018

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