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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uncle Fester's Poodle Fart T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 3/90
Page Views: 571 total · 4/month
Shared By: Locker on Sep 10, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route starts off of a boulder between Bryant Gumbel and Grandpa Gander and features very thin friction moves with very little in the way of holds. Put on your good shoes for this one! As with all routes on this formation, relatively easy walkoff towards entrance road to Lost Horse.


This is a three bolt thin friction route. There are no anchors on top. Small to medium pro for anchor. Hexes, Tricams, SLCD's all work well.


Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
a year or so back I hung all over the bolts trying to get this one. Yesterday we top roped it and again..I flailed!!! This thing is thin and takes smooth movement. It is very much Jtree friction all the way! Easy to set up a top rope inside a little hole in the rocks on top (Tight squeeze however) Most pro works well in the small to medium range. After giving this one a shot redirect rope via bolts to the right and have at Grandpa Gander 5.10cR that some found the start more difficult that this route................over and out! Eee Aww Keeeee!!! Sep 12, 2005
72HW Holly
72HW Holly  
Bald like a newborns' butt, thin like a 29 Palms tweaker and fun as heck on TR. Would like to see it led, but man, it's not within my ken to do it! Hung like crazy at the crux, found the key to be using obvious crimps in an un-obvious way and a very helpful right foot micro edge. Way balancey, way frictiony and prolly one of the hardest things I've clawed my way up to date. Highly recommended! Feb 19, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Critical smears and tiny crimps - for quite a few moves made this seem harder than 5.11a to me. Should've picked a nice cold day I guess. Mar 17, 2009

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