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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: TR, 16 ft
FA: Kevin Powell '83
Page Views: 336 total · 5/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Apr 3, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the thin crack on the summit block just right of the top of Uncle Fester. Pull the brutal thin moves to get established on real holds, then hang on and climb to the summit.

Location

On the upper block just right of Uncle Fester.

Protection

Top rope

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
My beta: start with right leg on higher ground on right side and left foot on very high sloping ledge to left. Right hand on obvious pod and left hand on microcrimp (which has now broken and is much worse). Work up to block (that follows the seam up) with very sharp one finger crimp on the block's upper right. First real hold is small left facing protruding flake. But next footholds to get you there are pretty awful to non-existent. Apr 29, 2015
Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA
Stone Adventures   Joshua Tree, CA
This thing is way hard. Like V7 boulder problem or something. 2-move wonder. Not 5.11 in my book. More like 5.12+ or more... Oct 31, 2017

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