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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Herb Laegar, Andy and Lotus Brown, 10/86
Page Views: 143 total, 1/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Sep 2, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first route to the left of Granny Goose. Pull onto the face above an overlap and make thin moves up past three bolts. Some pro can be had past the last bolt to ease your mind. Easy descent down the north face (towards the Lost Horse Road).

Protection

3 bolts, pro to 3" for anchors

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10d
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10d
Could feel myself sliding downwards on every move past the first two bolts - maybe I need to new rubber, or new hobby.... Mar 17, 2009
72HW Holly
  5.10c
72HW Holly  
  5.10c
TR ascent - took 2 slides near the bottom. Found the climb to be challenging to say the least, not to mention painful on the toes! Decent enough movement, decent enough climb. I would agree that 10c might be a little generous, however, as 10b4me says, it may be a technique issue on my part. Feb 19, 2008
Steve Powell
  5.10c
Steve Powell  
  5.10c
locker,you got to use better technique.seriously though, I flashed it the first time I did it. couldn't get off the ground the second time. Sep 13, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
went up this thing via TR yesterday and had great difficulty at the start. 5.10c is being kind to this one! Sep 12, 2005
Steve Powell
  5.10c
Steve Powell  
  5.10c
Climbed this a couple of years ago. Thought it was fun.My hardest face climb in the monument. Nov 2, 2003