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Grandpa Gander
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.1 from 27
votes
Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Aleister Crowley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Hand Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mandarina TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Middle Hand, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Omen, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Hand Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Silly Goose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Uhh Cult, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02851, -116.1785 |
| FA: | Herb Laegar, Andy and Lotus Brown October 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,158 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Sep 2, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start about 10 feet to the left of Granny Goose. Pull onto the face above an overlap and clip the first bolt. Make thin moves right and up past another bolt. Move left to a stance with a third bolt, then make more difficult and sporty moves to gain a small, left-facing corner. Continue up a short left-leaning crack to a hole in the summit boulders. Squirm through the hole to the top.
If you want to set this up as a TR, you'll want purple, red and gold Camalots and a cordalette. This anchor can be built on the road (front) side of the hole you crawl through (or by leading Bryant Gumbel).
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