All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdside Crags

Left Hand of Darkness Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Left Hand of Darkness

Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face 16 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

Left Hand of Darkness - SW Face 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Left Hand of Darkness - West Face 11 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

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Elevation:	4,116 ft	1,255 m
GPS:	34.02858, -116.17855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	34,089 total · 167/month
Shared By:	C Miller on May 21, 2008
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and Lost Horse Road - the dirt road used to access the Lost Horse Wall.

The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.

The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.

Getting There

Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Lost Horse Road.

East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock.

The approach takes about 1-2 minutes and is very kid friendly.

West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area.

The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Left Hand of Darkness

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 157 ● Granny Goose Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 4 ● The Omen TR Left Hand of Darkness…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 25 ● Grandpa Gander Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 15 ● Right Route Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 49 ● Uncle Fester Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 8 ● To Air Is Human Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 5 ● Gomma Cocida Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 6 ● Anti-Gravity Boots Trad Left Hand of Darkness…
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R 7 ● Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload Trad Left Hand of Darkness…