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Left Hand of Darkness Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,116 ft | 1,255 m |
| GPS: |
34.02858, -116.17855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 34,264 total · 157/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on May 21, 2008 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Left Hand of Darkness is conveniently located at the intersection of Quail Springs Road and Lost Horse Road - the dirt road used to access the Lost Horse Wall.
The East Face sits right off the road and is home to mostly moderate cracks and faces up to 5.10+.
The West Face has a more secluded feel and offers a good concentration of routes in the 5.11 range.
Getting There
Park in the small lot at the intersection of Quail Springs Road (paved) and the dirt Lost Horse Road.
East Face approach: A short trail leads from the parking lot to the rock.
- The approach takes about 1-2 minutes and is very kid friendly.
West Face approach: Hike down the road, skirting the north end of the formation to reach a trail heading south which leads to the base of the west face. Some scrambling is required to reach some of the routes making this not a kid-friendly area.
- The approach takes about 5 minutes or less.
Classic Climbing Routes at Left Hand of Darkness
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