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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Fred East & John Edgar 1973
Page Views: 2,919 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steven Powers on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.

Protection

This climb accepts a full range of gear, it starts thin about red alien/.5 camalot and widens up top to a #4 camalot.; large cams will suffice for anchors
Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA
Stone Adventures   Joshua Tree, CA
Found some cams on top yesterday. Someone forgot to clean their anchor probably. Name the pieces and I'll see that you get them back somehow. Nov 3, 2017
Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
  5.7
Matt Michael   Oceanside, CA
  5.7
Never felt like it was harder than 5.7 Dec 22, 2013
mmurduff Mic
  5.7+
mmurduff Mic  
  5.7+
@ caughtinside: I lead the entire route from ground up. What I meant by followed the second traverse is that I followed the left traversing crack instead of following the smaller crack directly up and out. Oct 31, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I've only done the route once but I did that high left traverse through the crack and thought it was pretty fun and 5.7. And how did you lead this but follow the second traverse? Oct 30, 2012
mmurduff Mic
  5.7+
mmurduff Mic  
  5.7+
I lead this last weekend and followed the second traverse, the one up near the top. The route exits straight up from the vertical crack, but I went to the left on the face with thin feet and uncomfortable hands. I rate the upper traverse an 8 or 8+.

Does anybody have any information about whether a variation route exists off of, and/or angling left away from granny Goose. Oct 30, 2012
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
  5.7
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
  5.7
Fun undercling, but too short to make it worth the downclimb. Mar 27, 2011
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.7
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.7
A nice little route. Felt a bit easier than some other 5.7s in the area, and I don't know where the painful part would have been . . . Dec 13, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
I like this climb. Although the crack after the really nice traverse looks intimidating, especially where it steepens it yields well to just one foot jam and hand holds thereabouts on the face or the edge of the crack. Dec 6, 2010
BenCooper  
 
Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well. Dec 11, 2008
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
This is definetly a seven, the traverse is the easiest part of the climb imho - The down climb is on the back side and should be done w care... Oct 8, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Leading the traverse was awesome! Nov 30, 2007
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7
Decent enough route. The lower traverse is all buckets with the top being the crux, with a just slightly bigger than fists crack. Two #2 camalots for anchoring the top, just back from the edge. Employ a couple of long runners to make it comfortable. May 3, 2006
Led this route back in '97. I don't like traverses, but this is a short one. I disagree about the route being an eight. It is definitely a seven. Nov 2, 2003
This wretched route is painful, and I'd rate it eight not seven Nov 1, 2003

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