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Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Risky Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Steve Elder 7/24/93
Page Views: 947 total · 7/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Climb Gandalfs Grip crack straight up to the line of bolts up the overhung bulge. Jump from hold to hold to the crux of 2 finger crimps and throws. Prepare to project.


Gandalf's Grip.


Gear for gandalfs and 10 bolts, anchor.


- No Photos -
another Chad  
Two & a half years ago I posted the comment above. Crickets. Today I removed the bare stud between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. As I said before, it appears that this was the remnant of an older retrobolting.

Phillip is right, the bolt protecting the crux (2nd bolt) was a rusted out piece of junk. I replaced it today with beefy SS hardware.

Chad Apr 20, 2015
another Chad  
I think that the bare stud was left after some not-so-recent retrobolting. I remember thinking that it would be very hard to clip.

Does anyone want the stud to stay for possible future use? I'd be willing to remove it and putty the hole if the answer is no.

Chad Oct 8, 2012
peachy spohn  
Yes, it would suck to fall onto the slab below and there is a missing hanger, but I never noticed the bolt as being in poor condition or so rusty. I think the climb is okay to do. If anyone gets on it just use your best judgement and climb within your own safety realm. Jul 16, 2008
Yes, it is still missing a hanger. I was just on this route the other day. The bolt protecting the crux is a rusted-out piece of junk and there is a stud sticking out of the wall about 2-3 feet above this. The hangerless bolt wouldn't be a big deal except that if the rusted bolt blows, the climber will fall back onto the slab of Gandalf's. Jul 8, 2008
peachy spohn  
no, it is not missing a hanger any more. Aug 19, 2007
mark d  
this route was always missing a hanger when i still lived in pdx. is it still? Oct 31, 2006

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