Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reckless Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 42 ft
FA: Tim Olson, 8/22/92
Page Views: 2,336 total · 16/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travle up a left angle diheadrel (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.

Protection

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot.

Description

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travel up a left angle dihedral (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.

Protection

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot

Photos

- No Photos -
This is one of the best 5.9 trad pitches I've done anywhere. It seemed a bit dirty and untraveled when I got on it. The right finish through the roof is the crux of the route and definitely the way to go in my opinion. Jun 1, 2007
continue to the top of Gandalf's in 1 pitch with a 60m rope. Jul 1, 2007
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
 
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
 
I agree with Adam, one of the best 5.9 trad climbs. Its sloped enough where its a small finger crack rated below 5.10. I also agree, go through the roof! If you are worried, stick a yellow BD cam in the crack above the roof and go for it! Jun 28, 2012
BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
In agreement with the description. The real crux is the finger crack on slab with the right leaning balancy action. The roof problem is super solid, straightforward, and really fun. Like Burk said, if you reach over the lip in the corner there's a tight spot for a gold and then it's just cruising. Don't forget to protect the traverse if you're going to Gandalf's. Jun 22, 2016
Adam McFadden
Portland, OR
 
Adam McFadden   Portland, OR
 
Great route. I highly recommend linking this with the second pitch of gandalf's grip for a fantastic long pitch of climbing. Rope drag isn't bad if you keep things extended below the roof. Be careful of a few loose blocks at the roof if you're going up right to gandalf's.

This route eats up small gear (I think I placed 6 medium sized nuts throughout the this climb and the second pitch of gandalf's).

You can rappel from the end of the second pitch of gandalf's with a single 70m rope. You need every bit of the rope to do this so make sure it's at the mid-point. Mar 18, 2018

More About Traffic Court

Printer-Friendly