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Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Risky Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 42 ft
FA: Tim Olson, 8/22/92
Page Views: 2,178 total · 16/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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18 Opinions

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Description

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travle up a left angle diheadrel (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.

Protection

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot.

Description

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travel up a left angle dihedral (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.

Protection

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot

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BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
In agreement with the description. The real crux is the finger crack on slab with the right leaning balancy action. The roof problem is super solid, straightforward, and really fun. Like Burk said, if you reach over the lip in the corner there's a tight spot for a gold and then it's just cruising. Don't forget to protect the traverse if you're going to Gandalf's. Jun 22, 2016
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
 
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
 
I agree with Adam, one of the best 5.9 trad climbs. Its sloped enough where its a small finger crack rated below 5.10. I also agree, go through the roof! If you are worried, stick a yellow BD cam in the crack above the roof and go for it! Jun 28, 2012
continue to the top of Gandalf's in 1 pitch with a 60m rope. Jul 1, 2007
This is one of the best 5.9 trad pitches I've done anywhere. It seemed a bit dirty and untraveled when I got on it. The right finish through the roof is the crux of the route and definitely the way to go in my opinion. Jun 1, 2007

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