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Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 706 total, 10/month
Shared By: phillip Hranicka on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Alas, where to begin... The rap-bolting, the toprope rehearsal, the 75lb-flake trundled, the poison oak blisters, the static line (used to reach the anchors from above) stolen while on the route cleaning, the partial pinkpoint first ascent- It's all true!

But let me bear the burden of shame so that you may climb this incredible route! Behold!

First climbed as the A2 second pitch of New Wave (a forgotten route stripped of its hangers), this route ascends the apex of the North Face. The most logical start climbs the first pitch of Peach Cling (10-?) to an anchor at about 50ft.

Continue up the broken-up, but reasonably solid orange rock using underclings and small feet, clipping a new bolt (recently replaced- a RE-bolt, NOT a retrobolt- get your terms straight!).

BOOM! Now it's on. A couple of solid cams protect a lock off to a couple of unlikely crimps and a good left hand notch that allows one to clip the bolt (OK- this was a retrobolt- I totally put a bolt in an old aid line that nobody did).

A tricky sequence sets up either a brutal high step while tipping backwards, or a short leap to a jug. (You are actually behind your belayer at this point! This is quite an exciting crux!) Reel this move in and bask in the runout, but easy moves above. (Edit: as of June '14 I placed an additional bolt after the crux sequence. The original ascent was more of a "headpoint" and would probably warrant a "R" rating if tried ground up. As it now stands, the route is a well-protected climb requiring a rack of gear with a few supplemental bolts.)

A good rest precedes the last, tricky sequence: engaging the final crack that leads to 30+ft of wildly exposed moves stemming the 5.7 dihedral high above I-84.

(route name credit to Pat McCarthy- connoisseur of archaic terms)

Location

Right side of the North Face, above Peach Cling.

While it would have been nice to climb this as one pitch, a 70m comes up a bit short (and the rope drag was a... drag). Better to pitch it out. It's also easier for the belayer to see the leader.

Protection

Rack to 1" with a focus on small cams and small to medium nuts. (it's possible to place a #2 Camalot on Peach Cling) Two protection bolts. Biners on both upper and lower anchor.

Photos

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As of June '14 I placed an additional bolt after the crux sequence. The original ascent was more of a "headpoint" and would probably warrant a "R" rating if tried ground up. As it now stands, the route is a well-protected climb requiring a rack of gear with a few supplemental bolts. Oh, and it's a fantastic route! The crux sequence is an amazing bit of climbing. Jul 22, 2014