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Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf’'s Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,252 total, 24/month
Shared By: another Chad on Jul 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is not a new or independent route but a combination of the starting crack on Gandalf’'s Grip and the top half of Peach Cling’'s crack. In some ways, this is a more natural path than busting left towards the bolted face on GG’'s first pitch once the crack peters out.

Start on Gandalf’'s Grip and climb until the crack ends (crux). Angle right on easy face holds for about ten feet (protectable) to join with the crack above New Wave & Peach Cling. Save some hand sized pieces of protection for this section. This easy crack is on a lower angle face that has lots of good edges. Follow the crack up as it angles slightly right until it ends at a nice belay ledge and bolted anchor.

It seemed worthwhile to post information about this hybrid route as it has several elements which are rare to have on Broughton Bluff’'s gear protected, single pitch climbs: It is clean, easily protectable, fairly long, the falls are safe, goes at a moderate grade and is really fun.

Location

Center of the North Wall

Protection

Gear to 2" & slings

Photos

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