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Routes in (1) North Face
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Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Frodo's Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Reckless Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Risky Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,253 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Paul L on Jun 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
This is for the first pitch only, as we did not climb the upper two pitches.
This route starts to the right of Peach Cling in a wide crack behind a free-standing block.
Olson's book calls for gear to 3", but I liked having a #4 behind that block. Get about waist high with the block, find some smaller gear, use good edges and underclings and begin moving left. Follow the corner over a couple blocks up to the Peach Cling ledge and anchors. Route is actually pretty fun, with thoughtful gear and some good moves. The rock quality is generally very good, but some more traffic would make it more enjoyable. Expect moss, dirt, lichen and some shrubbery. Olson calls this first pitch 5.6, but that seems a bit soft to me.
A decent alternative to access Risky Business or other options from the belay ledge.
The upper two pitches are listed in the book to go at 5.10a and 5.10c.
This route starts to the right of Peach Cling in a wide crack behind a free-standing block.
Olson's book calls for gear to 3", but I liked having a #4 behind that block. Get about waist high with the block, find some smaller gear, use good edges and underclings and begin moving left. Follow the corner over a couple blocks up to the Peach Cling ledge and anchors. Route is actually pretty fun, with thoughtful gear and some good moves. The rock quality is generally very good, but some more traffic would make it more enjoyable. Expect moss, dirt, lichen and some shrubbery. Olson calls this first pitch 5.6, but that seems a bit soft to me.
A decent alternative to access Risky Business or other options from the belay ledge.
The upper two pitches are listed in the book to go at 5.10a and 5.10c.
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