Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m), Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 612 total · 19/month
Shared By: Paul L on Jun 22, 2018
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is for the first pitch only, as we did not climb the upper two pitches.

This route starts to the right of Peach Cling in a wide crack behind a free-standing block.  
Olson's book calls for gear to 3", but I liked having a #4 behind that block.  Get about waist high with the block, find some smaller gear, use good edges and underclings and begin moving left.  Follow the corner over a couple blocks up to the Peach Cling ledge and anchors.  Route is actually pretty fun, with thoughtful gear and some good moves.  The rock quality is generally very good, but some more traffic would make it more enjoyable.  Expect moss, dirt, lichen and some shrubbery.  Olson calls this first pitch 5.6, but that seems a bit soft to me.
A decent alternative to access Risky Business or other options from the belay ledge.  

The upper two pitches are listed in the book to go at 5.10a and 5.10c.

Location

P1 Starts about 20' right of Gandalf's, 5' right of Peach Cling, in a wide crack behind a broken block just outside the small alcove.  Shares Peach Cling anchor.  

Protection

Gear to 4". Some small stuff and TCUs recommended

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