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Routes in (1) North Face

Cindyrella T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Tower S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Frodo's Journey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Peach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peach Cling T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Pipen's Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skullduggery T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Traffic Court T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: July 1987 by Wayne Wallace & Bob McGown
Page Views: 723 total, 15/month
Shared By: another Chad on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Risky Business starts at a nice belay ledge which is most easily accessed via Gandalf's Peach. Climb out left from the belay on a series of large, sloping edges. Round the corner and disappear from view of your belayer. Move up past a fixed pin and make some long reaches to jugs. After the piton the climb gets steeper though large jugs continue to appear at opportune times. Pull up to the p2 anchor for Gandalf's Grip. The second pitch of Risky Business starts by traversing right past the p3 dihedral of GG. Get into the next dihedral over and head to the top. From what I gather, p2 of RB is rarely done. Keep an eye out for Poison Oak near the top.

Protection

Gear to 2" for Gandalf's Peach. Consider using runners on most of the bolts on p1 of Risky Business. Gear to 1" for the second pitch.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Strange, balancy, slopey sequence through the traverse. Once around the corner, the bolts are homemade angles from who knows when. You can also continue left into Gandalf's 2nd pitch. Apr 3, 2017
another Chad  
 
The first pitch of Risky Business is one of my favorites at Broughton Bluff.


Chad Nov 19, 2013