Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Stern 1974
Page Views: 1,868 total · 12/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Great climb with some nice friction opportunities. Sometimes you can even get in a little chimneying in.

Location

The left side of Leaning tower. If you follow the trail a little to the left you will find big slab and nice spot to lace up. Climb up to the corner and set a belay. The second pitch has a couple of options that are really not very good.

Scramble off to the south or rap at Lycra sheath (not recommended unless your TRing it).

Protection

All Gear, standard rack.

Photos

Where is the 5.8 move on this route? I have climbed 5.6 routes in the Wichita's that I had a harder time with than this. I felt it was just a really sustained 5.7. Great route though and the view from up top is amazing. From what I hear many variations exist for toping out on the second pitch. We went left up a polished face easily seen from the belay ledge. Rigging the belay here was tricky, but the anchor was solid. This is now one of my favorite climbs in the Wichita Mountains. Apr 26, 2009
LanceSullins
Ridgway, CO
5.7
LanceSullins   Ridgway, CO
5.7
I concur, the corner was tricky but didn't seem harder than 5.7. Also, it was well protected. Mar 31, 2010
Brent Butcher
  5.7
Brent Butcher  
  5.7
Agreed definitely along the lines of a 5.7 not a 5.8. Nov 28, 2010
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
If you traverse right after the P1 belay and go up the face/shallow gully, the climbing is easy with great exposure. May 23, 2011
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Had a great time on this route. I felt a little insecure on the slab but enjoyed using some chimney technique and even locked in some arm bars when placing gear. I was a little nervous near the top of the 1st pitch as I could hear the rats in the crack just above and behind my head. I didn't want to look back, just tried to block it out and keep moving. The 2nd pitch was really casual but need to be careful with the rope drag as you leave the belay and immediately go around a corner. All in all, I'm glad I got on this route. Feb 19, 2017
Andrew Smith
Dallas, TX
 
Andrew Smith   Dallas, TX
 
Such a rad first pitch; great placements and fun moves. Used primarily tricams and nuts for gear; used #.5 , tricam, and #2 for anchor. Lots of options for anchor. 2nd pitch is an easy scramble, along the lines of a 5.5. Also, lots of choss and loose rock on pitch 2. Was able to clean off some big chunks of it but be careful. Definitely worth doing. Sep 24, 2017
rcongo
Memphis, tn
 
rcongo   Memphis, tn
 
If you move right at the first belay and go on the face the route can be done in a single pitch so long as you use all long runners and run out the gear. Nov 29, 2017