PRINT: Rock Climb Arrowsmith, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Arrowsmith

5.7, Trad, 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 42 votes
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Stern 1974
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Leaning Tower

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Great climb with some nice friction opportunities. Sometimes you can even get in a little chimneying in.

Location

The left side of Leaning tower. If you follow the trail a little to the left you will find big slab and nice spot to lace up. Climb up to the corner and set a belay. The second pitch has a couple of options that are really not very good.

Scramble off to the south or rap at Lycra sheath (not recommended unless your TRing it).

Protection

All Gear, standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A climbing couple on each end of one of the P2 options.

First pitch, solid placements throughout

Luke finishing the P2 scramble for our second climbing party. Watch for cacti!

One of many lovely belay options towards the summit. Boulders to the left, at the end of the scramble.

A look down P1 from the belay station.

Myself low on P1, Michael at belay. Photo by Luke.

looking up the slab and the zig zagging dihedral from the base of Arrowsmith.

Barritt on Arrowsmith

route photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CalebSimpson

Where is the 5.8 move on this route? I have climbed 5.6 routes in the Wichita's that I had a harder time with than this. I felt it was just a really sustained 5.7. Great route though and the view from up top is amazing. From what I hear many variations exist for toping out on the second pitch. We went left up a polished face easily seen from the belay ledge. Rigging the belay here was tricky, but the anchor was solid. This is now one of my favorite climbs in the Wichita Mountains. Apr 26, 2009

LanceSullins
Ridgway, CO

5.7

I concur, the corner was tricky but didn't seem harder than 5.7. Also, it was well protected. Mar 31, 2010

Brent Butcher

5.7

Agreed definitely along the lines of a 5.7 not a 5.8. Nov 28, 2010

Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX

5.7

If you traverse right after the P1 belay and go up the face/shallow gully, the climbing is easy with great exposure. May 23, 2011

Michael Parker
Belgrade, MT

5.8

Had a great time on this route. I felt a little insecure on the slab but enjoyed using some chimney technique and even locked in some arm bars when placing gear. I was a little nervous near the top of the 1st pitch as I could hear the rats in the crack just above and behind my head. I didn't want to look back, just tried to block it out and keep moving. The 2nd pitch was really casual but need to be careful with the rope drag as you leave the belay and immediately go around a corner. All in all, I'm glad I got on this route. Feb 19, 2017

Andrew Smith
Dallas, TX

Such a rad first pitch; great placements and fun moves. Used primarily tricams and nuts for gear; used #.5 , tricam, and #2 for anchor. Lots of options for anchor. 2nd pitch is an easy scramble, along the lines of a 5.5. Also, lots of choss and loose rock on pitch 2. Was able to clean off some big chunks of it but be careful. Definitely worth doing. Sep 24, 2017

rcongo
Memphis, tn

If you move right at the first belay and go on the face the route can be done in a single pitch so long as you use all long runners and run out the gear. Nov 29, 2017

Jacob Dulany
Missouri

5.7

Some of the most fun I’ve had on a climb! Absolutely true to its grade. Pitch 1 is the money - great movement, slab problems, good nut placements. Pitch 2 is decent - enough exposure to feel exciting, though easy climbing with sparse gear.

As 1/27/23, the previously mentioned .5 cam and cordage at the belay ledge are still there. That stuck cam is one with the route now - an easy third for our anchors, so thank you!

Great views at the top, and an easy, 10-minute walk down to the Southeast, slight bushwhack. Feb 10, 2023