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Routes in Leaning Tower

Arrowsmith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Capital Y T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crucifix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunch Berries T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doctor Kildare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Landscape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Funky Finger Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leaning Tower Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Potion Number 8 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Lycra Sheath T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neckline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Noname T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tenderfoot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tight Rope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild and Crazy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Stearns 1974
Page Views: 1,964 total, 14/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climbing the lower slab section is the real crux. Some thin moves on small gear, then the crack opens back up and leads to a belay stance in the corner (mid to large gear), then up the chimney section up and exit right.

Location

From the primary base area below Leaning Tower. Follow the trail up and left and then scramble through some ledges to the right until your below the main ramp of Leaning Tower. The route follows the the left facing corner all the way up the tower.

Protection

.5"-2" gear on the lower slab. Good Nuts. Take a fatty for the chimney section up top. A #4 Camalot is handy!
The lichen/moss on the slab is extremely slick when wet. Same for Captain Crunch. Feb 6, 2017
Drom
 
Drom  
 
If belaying a second from above it would be best to sling a boulder directly above the chimney instead of using the anchors on lycra sheath due to the potential for a large swing. A high cam redirect would work too. May 3, 2015