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Routes in Leaning Tower

Arrowsmith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Capital Y T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crucifix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunch Berries T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doctor Kildare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Landscape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Funky Finger Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leaning Tower Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Potion Number 8 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Lycra Sheath T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neckline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Noname T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tenderfoot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tight Rope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild and Crazy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Gary Ballard, Mark Yarbrough 1988
Page Views: 935 total, 7/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb the main ramp using gear and then move up the face following the bolts. The crux is just past the 2nd bolt in my opinion. For top roping I suggest using the middle balcony to belay instead of the lower section, a much better view too.

Location

The center middle ramp on the Leaning tower. Look for the large diving board up top which you will be to the right of.

Protection

Gear, 3 bolts, and a small TCU placement in a crack on the face. Chains up top.

Photos

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Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
It should be noted that there is some loose rock on this face and route-finding can be tricky. I tried to onsite this route and broke a hold off in the run-out section well above the last bolt, resulting in a 30+ foot whipper ending just above the slab...The hold that broke didn't even seem loose. Also, the anchor was replaced by the Texas Mountaineers last year. Apr 13, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
It's isn't an ideal setup. Maybe old, but it's bomb proof. The angle of pull in that granite. Unless things have started spinning up there, I never gave it a second thought. Best to carry some extendable slings for the anchor if you intend to top rope. Mar 25, 2015
The anchor on the top of this seemed a little suspect. Mar 24, 2015