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Routes in Leaning Tower

Arrowsmith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Capital Y T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crucifix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunch Berries T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doctor Kildare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Landscape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Funky Finger Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leaning Tower Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Potion Number 8 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Lycra Sheath T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neckline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Noname T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tenderfoot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tight Rope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild and Crazy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Sterns 1974/ Direct Finish in 1979 by Jon Frank, Jimmy Ratzliff
Page Views: 1,223 total, 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb the super easy right most ramp up to a short roof section and belay in the boulders up top.

Location

The right most ramp on the wall. Scramble across the ledges below to get to the base of this climb.

Protection

Rack to 2.5", gear anchor. Watch for loose of falling rock.

Photos

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Cap'n Crunch gets its name from the loose, friable rock in fist- to head-sized chunks that make up seemingly half of the holds through the finish. Knock and wiggle everything you touch, first. Rope drag ramps up because you end up traversing around the bad rock, and the options for building the anchor are not great. Otherwise, a fun route. Feb 21, 2016
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
  5.7+
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma
  5.7+
Just a heads up - the "scramble" to the base of the climb about 20ft of 4th class and a bit sketchy. The climb makes the approach worth it though - great exposure at the top! Jun 29, 2012