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Routes in Leaning Tower

Arrowsmith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Capital Y T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crucifix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunch Berries T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doctor Kildare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Landscape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Funky Finger Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leaning Tower Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Potion Number 8 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Lycra Sheath T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neckline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Noname T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tenderfoot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tight Rope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild and Crazy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Earl & Gardner Hui on 17-Jul-2010
Page Views: 124 total, 1/month
Shared By: Gardner Hui on Jul 21, 2010
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You & This Route


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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

This is an alternative pitch-2 of Arrowsmith. Here's the name sake:

"Arrowsmith" looks like a question mark '?'. Its P1 straight and its P2 curled. "The Y" is an alternative P1 of "Arrowsmith". Together they form an upside-down lowercase 'y': Lowercase because their P2 is curled. "Capital Y" as an alternative P2 is straight up: Thus making an upside-down capital 'Y'. You'll need to look at the topo to make sense of the name. To get there, climb P1 of Arrowsmith or The Y. Belay. Then instead of the traditional P2 where you start by traverse right. You'd climb straight up and slightly to the left along a crack system 25ft to a triangular cove roomy enough to lie down. From the cove, you continue 35ft straight up and slightly to the left along the cracks -- this time you'll see two cracks leading to the top and they are about 5ft apart. Follow either crack. Once on the top and on the flat ground, walk back 15ft to wrap your rope around any big boulders -- that's your top anchor. Belay.

Location

Bushwack off a gulley to the left (south) of Leaning Tower.

Protection

Our rack has DB stoppers #3-13, CAMP tricams #0.5-5. We had DB C3's but did not need them for Capital Y.

Photos

John Barritt   OKC
This is the natural finish to Tight rope, no name the Y and/or Arrowsmith. Can't really claim a 2010 FA on something that's been done about 1,000 times IMO. I did this (the first time)in 1978. OK select guidebook has Arrowsmith looking like a question mark, it's original exit (this line) is a straight shot up the wall. Also, the Y is not an alt first pitch to Arrowsmith, it's a separate climb. JB Dec 19, 2016
this is a more obvious and generally better finish to "the Y" or "arrowsmith." i find the rope drag to be pretty bad if i protect in the left facing dihedral toward the top. I'd suggest either running it out on this easier ground or moving left onto the face where you'll end up belaying anyway off the boulder up top. Feb 27, 2011