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Early Access
Routes in Boulder Slips
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Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BS One T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Haiku S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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La Loon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Where's Bob? T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.0046, -105.4065 |
| FA: | Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1964. FFA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 2,540 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Oct 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
Per *Items added 12/30 Closet clean out. Apparel, approach shoe's, (BD, prana, scarpa, REI): Blob, Bitty, and Security Risk have been reopened on 4/21/26.
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Access Issue:
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
Description
Boulder Slips is an old trad route that is seldom climbed these days because of a few spots of poor protection. However, the climbing is good, the crux has decent pro, and the route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.
From the parking pullout, walk up to the shoulder on the right side of crag. The route starts in a big right-facing dihedral with a roof about 40' up.
Climb up the dihedral, past several thin sections, to the roof. Protection is generally good in this area, with small cams and wires. Face climb left just below the roof to a stance on the arete. There is a thin crack under the roof where you can place two black (smallest) Aliens to protect this crux traverse. Above the roof, step right and climb a short slab to a crack (5.6 or 5.7 runout), and continue up the crack and slabs to the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. The last slab section is also a bit runout, but no harder than 5.7.
Stop at the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. From here, it's 85' back down. If you continue up to a pine tree at the top, there is no anchor and it's 110' back down (a 60m rope won't quite make it).
Protection
Up to a #2 Camalot, with emphasis on small to finger-size cams and small wires. Two black Aliens provide protection for the crux moves left under the roof. Ball nuts should work here as well.
The protection up to the roof and through the traverse is generally good with modern cams. The only runouts are in two slab sections above the roof, but the climbing is no harder than 5.7.
The route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.
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