Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Goose

Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Bruce S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,859 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This sport route is shown in Rossiter's topo on p.68, but it does not include a description in the book. It was originally bolted in the 1980s.

Locate the obvious South Face route in a blocky dihedral. Move 20 feet left of this dihedral, and locate a bolted line. Scramble up onto a ledge with a small tree to get started. Work up past a bolt to a small roof. Clip a second bolt, then pull over the bulge. Continue up past a 2 more bolts and a Lost Arrow piton over a lip. Climb an easy but runout slab to a bolted anchor.

This is one of the better sport lines in the Flatirons. It is technical, but all the holds are there.


4 bolts, 1 fixed pin. A blue Alien can marginally back up the fixed pin.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Probably the best route on the Goose. Sep 17, 2006
Good climbing, but my partner and I both thought the first pitch of Raging Bull (aka Cub) up the hill was a much better Flatirons sport climb. Also, this route probably deserves at least a PG-13 rating for the run-out from the last bolt to the lip of the wall. Oct 21, 2007
Aaron Martinuzzi
  5.10b R
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.10b R
I'm with Dougald - this runout after the last bolt is pretty significant, and since it's a traverse, could result in a really unpleasant scrape across the face. Additionally, clipping the first bolt requires some solid 9/9+ moves that, if you were to blow them, would result in a really unpleasant fall.

Today, 25-Sept-09, my partner and I cut some bogus tat off the anchors and left a couple of carabiners that can be used to belay-from-above and then rappel - I wouldn't want to belay a TR from the ground off the 'biners. Sep 25, 2009
Rich Kelly
  5.10b R
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10b R
I also agree that this was a scary climb. Getting to the 1st bolt is committing and dangerous. I was able to sling a large protrusion on the ledge below using a double length sling. It would keep you from hitting the ground but not the ledge. Because of little traffic on this climb, it is also hard to determine the easiest (and safest) way to go. I did not see the last bolt till I was 15 right of it, so trend up and left at the pin. Also trend left at the last bolt instead of trying to go straight up. It is a long way to the anchor after the last bolt with no gear opportunities. Aug 19, 2012
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
The anchor bolts on this climb are not inspiring and would be good candidates for replacement.

Going directly over the bulge on the bottom face felt like mid-5.10 but can easily be avoided by going around right at probably 5.10-. Aug 9, 2015
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
  5.10b/c R
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
  5.10b/c R
I would say this deserves the R rating, but it's probably important to say it's not on the hardest climbing. When you're pulling the crux, there's a bolt right next to you, but I'd say you should be comfortable on running it out on 5.9 past the last bolt. Aug 10, 2015
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
The bolts have been replaced.

Thanks to OSMP and the ASCA for providing the hardware. Nov 1, 2017

More About Batman

Printer-Friendly Guide