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Routes in The Goose

Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Bruce S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, 1988, solo
Page Views: 297 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the W face of the Goose are routes Arete, Deserted Cities of the Heart, & Love's Labor Lost. Hike up and around the Goose Eggs from the Fern Canyon trail. Find a fainter path skirting the W sides of the Goose Eggs and the Goose. You'll come upon the S face with Cub, Sweet & Innocent, Raging Bull this way. Observe potential wildlife closures.

On the R side of the face, is a nice line near an arête linking weakness and face features. Find the start with shared with Deserted Cities of the Heart, climb 5.8 briefly past 2 bolts, traverse R on easy ground to the arête, gain a break in the face with a tree. Sling the tree, find easy moves over the roof, find cam placements in the horizontal cracks on the face, gain another smaller break with a #2 Camalot placement at the arête. Here, you must choose L or R. Going L may gain a layback to a potential crack feature; however, the topo indicates the line is R. Going R looks like a long way to protectable features with a smoother face that looks harder than the topo's 5.5. You will find a small flake for a black Alien at a rest. A short distance further, you'll find a #3 Camalot in a crack. At the top is a 3 bolt anchor. 140 ft. Rap either 140ft to W or (less recommended: difficult pull, flakes) rap 165' to S (about 100' is free rappel). 1.4 stars.

Protection

Black Alien to #3 Camalot useful.

Per Mark Roth: the anchor above this has been replaced.

Photos

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Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
The anchor above this has been replaced. Thanks to OSMP and to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Nov 7, 2017