East Face / Goose
Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
Routes in The Goose
|Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Big Bruce S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,375 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on Nov 19, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIf you can get past the approach and dificulties to find the start of the climb, this is a great scrambling route on great rock that takes you to the pin point North Summit of the Goose. There is no need to worry about the crowds on this one.
From the Mesa Trail, hike up to the base of Seal Rock. Some 20 feet before Seal a fork takes you left past the base of the Pup. Hike into the gully between Seal Rock and the Penguin and once above the Penguin head Left and up towards the now towering North face of the Goose.
The start of the climb is on the North face some 200 feet up from the base of the East face. Scramble up parallel to some pine needle covered slabs until a boulder blocks the way. Look left for a large twisted tree (corkscrew like). This marks the place where you will find three weaknesses that allow passage onto a large ledge on the East face.
We chose the lower weakness and felt it was in the 5.0 to 5.2 range but way exposed. After some 15 feet of this, you will find yourself on a comfortable ledge on the large East Face. Traverse south on the ledge until you reach a gully and head straight up on the right side of the gully (we never went into the gully).
After some 150 feet, you will reach another ledge. Head straight up on steep but featured rock to a small ledge below the final summit block. Climb up the summit block via its NE corner or its North side. The summit is barely large enough to accomodate one person.
Descent - Downclimb back to the ledge below the final summit block. Traverse South on the West side of the block and head west into a large chimney/crack) Notice a large Pinnacle West of you. Continue West on the North side of some broken boulders (easy but exposed and somewhat loose) and eventually pass the pinnacle on its southern side. From this, now easy ridge, you can hike left towards Fern Canyon Trail or right past the West face of Seal and down its North side to the Mesa Trail.