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Routes in The Goose

Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Bruce S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Karen Kuddes, 1989
Page Views: 1,196 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start up on the ramp to the left of Deserted Cities and follow the bolts to the same anchor as Deserted Cities. A few runout sections have cracks for the mentioned pro. Excellent face climbing to a great summit.

Descent: A single bolt with a ring or traverse 20ft. to double rings. A single 50m rap to ledge then downclimb ledge.

Protection

8 QDs plus a #0.5 and #2.5 Friend to a single bolt anchor. Bring a #4 Friend if you don't feel comfortable with a single bolt.

Location

This is located on the west side of the Goose. Approach via the Fern Canyon trail. There are some sections which are looser on the approach.
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This was re-bolted on September 30th. It now has a 2 bolt anchor.

Huge thanks to OSMP and the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Nov 1, 2017
Rob White
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Rob White   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Nice climb, on a beautiful face, with great views and position. Though compared with Deserted Cities next door, this seemed significantly more difficult and serious than the single number grade difference suggests. We thought even with gear the mandatory run outs warrant a PG-13 rating at least. Oct 17, 2015
Luke Clarke
Golden
  5.10b
Luke Clarke   Golden
  5.10b
A new #4 Camalot (about the same as the old 3.5) goes in nicely in a horizontal and a shoulder length sling lined up the rope with the bolts. Quality pitch. Oct 17, 2010
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
  5.10c
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
  5.10c
Cool Route! Fun overhanging start. Definite crux at the second bolt but the whole climb is consistent at .8 or .9. I only took a #1 and #2 Camalot on this climb (in addition to the draws). I plugged the #1 in the first horizontal crack (between bolts 3 and 4, I think) but the #2 was too small for the next placement (a #3.5 Camalot maybe??) so it was pretty run-out to the next bolt. As Tony says, no gear would be X rated with a possible decker. Nov 30, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Good climb overall. Note [the] warning about [supplementing] the bolts with gear. I saw the line and mistakenly presumed that it was all bolted, as the [Rossiter] book shows it pretty well evenly spaced. Somewhere about in the middle of the climb I was 25+ feet above gear and only 50' above a pretty good sized ledge. It is X-rated without the gear, you will be looking at a bone-smashing fall from 5.8+ (?) moves just before the next bolt. With pro- no big deal, it would be solid if placed well. Jan 27, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
The intent was to traverse out to the double bolt anchors on the right (South). If you look around you can get in some gear close enough to the bolt. These days I'd probably put in two. Mar 8, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Mighty nice picture. Pretty technical. Significantly thinner than its neighbor, Deserted Cities.... What's up with single bolt anchors? Mar 8, 2002