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Routes in The Goose

Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Bruce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard M. Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder (Dr. ABS)
Page Views: 1,495 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a steep sport climb that combines pumpy jug moves in the first half, a very thin, technical crux in the middle, and more pumpy and inobvious moves to finish. Some of the holds in the first half appear suspect, but I've done the route three times now and I don't remember ever breaking anything. Despite a bit of loose rock and a less-than-perfect bolt placement at the crux (near your feet for the hardest moves), this is a wonderful Flatirons sport climb.

A second pitch (5.12b) climbs over a bulge on very small holds.

Location

This is on a steep, orange wall near the upper end of the Goose's south face. Start on the Sweet and Innocent corner, step left on a ledge at a small tree about 25 feet up, and clip the first bolt by a gaping, undercling flake.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts to anchors. Bring long slings to extend the anchors for toproping. Maybe a few wires or small cams to protect the 30 feet of climbing to the first bolt.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11b PG13
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11b PG13
All 8 bolts were replaced on the first pitch yesterday with 1/2-inch stainless hardware. Four out of the 7 bolts on the second pitch were replaced, and the remaining three bolts will be upgraded soon. Both anchors were also upgraded with new stainless steel hardware.

That second pitch doesn't look climbed much and still has a few friable flakes here and there.... I'd suggest bringing some 1-inch gear to protect the section getting to the first bolt and then perhaps small wires to protect a runout section above the 4th bolt. I'd be curious if anyone has climbed this pitch in the last two decades and what you think.... looks hard for the grade. Oct 1, 2017
I cleaned all the loose rock off the first pitch last year. There was some scary and dangerous stuff indeed. Still needs to have the current bolts updated. Hope to get around to it this fall. Never talked to anyone who has done the second pitch, but I suspect it is kind of chossy as well. Aug 14, 2015
tom selleck  
 
A #3 stopper makes the move to the anchor much more comfortable. A great route in a beautiful setting. Full value 11a. Oct 26, 2008