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Routes in The Goose

Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Bruce S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face / Goose T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bret Ruckman and Steve Annecone, 9-7-14
Page Views: 757 total · 18/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Golden Goat climbs up the steep, yellow and orange wall just right of Sweet and Innocent. It's sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on buckets for the most part, with a crux finish up top. Although there are some vertical bits, it overhangs about 5 degrees on average.

Location

The route starts about 40 feet right of the Sweet and Innocent start, right in the middle of the west face of the Goose. Lower or rappel from chains at the top, or one could traverse left at the top to join Sweet and Innocent, taking that to the summit.

Protection

9 quickdraws plus two for the anchor.

Photos

Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
We got on this route thinking it was Raging Bull and therefore were prepared for suspect, fragile flakes, so in that sense there were no surprises. The last headwall before the anchors (located up and left) is mostly blank, and it was not obvious at the time that the route continued around and right. It is a bit spooky tip-toeing the lip to get back to clip the anchors below. Aug 9, 2015
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I found the position, bolting, and movement on this line to be outstanding; unfortunately, I found the rock to be extremely suspect (and borderline dangerous in my risk adverse opinion) for most, if not all, of the route. I just didn’t feel safe on the route due to the aforementioned (knocking off a massive foothold while cranking over the bulge at mid-height sure didn’t help). I’m not even sure if more cleaning would have helped – just too many rotten bands on that section of the cliff. The crux move is a blind, double bump right that’s somewhat off the bolt line. The route is 5.10+ with beta. No disrespect to Bret and Steve, whose contributions have been immense – thanks, guys, for all your great additions to Front Range (and beyond) climbing! Nov 9, 2014
Chris Beh
  5.11a
Chris Beh  
  5.11a
I like this pitch! Lots of big holds with 5.10 climbing up to a good rest just below the last bolt and a short crux. I would call it 11a. Wear a helmet belaying. There is still some loose rock. Also note that this route is not great to follow. Bolted fine for the lead, but the anchor is up a ways left of the last bolt. The crux climbing moves further right before traversing back up to the chains. It would be kind of a nasty swing if you fell following the crux move. I did follow the pitch after leading it and chose to pull up the rope to the anchor rather than face the possible fall off the crux. Nov 9, 2014