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Routes in The Goose
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Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Big Bruce S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face / Goose T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Skein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wild Horses T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Rob Candelaria, Richard Wright; 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,653 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 25, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Wild Horses is a long (35 meters—KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE!) pitch on the southwest face of the Goose, just left of and sharing its first half with the trad climb Sweet and Innocent. It can be done in one long pitch with some long slings on your trad pro down low to reduce drag.
Climb Sweet and Innocent through its lower 5.10- crux, then step right, and follow the easier of the two crack lines to a ledge. Sidle left to clip a bolt, then head up past 8 more bolts (9 total) to anchors at the lip of the wall. The climbing is fairly continuous, with a punchy section along the lieback flake in the middle, then continuous crimping past the final four bolts. We stayed slightly right of the bolt line, though there look to also be holds along the left that would keep it at its original grade of 5.13a. Still, the bolts are plenty clippable from the right sequence—it seemed like the way to go.
This is a long, stellar, airy pitch on good stone that deserves to get done more, though the heads-up trad bottom will probably keep some suitors away.
For the bottom, I had gear to 2", including RPs (very useful); long slings are helpful in spots as well. This route has been recently rebolted and has SS 1/2" hardware and new anchors. Thanks for the rebolting effort, Mark Roth, et al!
Climb Sweet and Innocent through its lower 5.10- crux, then step right, and follow the easier of the two crack lines to a ledge. Sidle left to clip a bolt, then head up past 8 more bolts (9 total) to anchors at the lip of the wall. The climbing is fairly continuous, with a punchy section along the lieback flake in the middle, then continuous crimping past the final four bolts. We stayed slightly right of the bolt line, though there look to also be holds along the left that would keep it at its original grade of 5.13a. Still, the bolts are plenty clippable from the right sequence—it seemed like the way to go.
This is a long, stellar, airy pitch on good stone that deserves to get done more, though the heads-up trad bottom will probably keep some suitors away.
For the bottom, I had gear to 2", including RPs (very useful); long slings are helpful in spots as well. This route has been recently rebolted and has SS 1/2" hardware and new anchors. Thanks for the rebolting effort, Mark Roth, et al!
Location
This is between Raging Bull and Sweet and Innocent, sharing its bottom half with the latter climb. Begin at a small stance below a dark, left-facing corner that leads to a ledge.
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