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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,692 total · 11/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A clean, very shallow offwidth leads to a thin hands crack above. This is a good place to practice heel-toe jams.

Location

middle of the narrow south face of the rock

Protection

standard rack - the offwidth has a thin crack in the back that you can place protection in

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
This would be a good first wide crack. You could probably protect it reasonably well without big gear, and it actually requires some wide technique to climb. The finishing tight hand crack is fun too. Jan 10, 2008
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.3
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.3
I thought this felt a lot easier than 5.5, but I enjoy wide, akward cracks! Although big gear looks good for the bottom section, I found small placemnts to be bomber. The upper hand crack section was also a lot of fun! Jan 11, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
Did this climb in 1986, and felt that it was graded fairly at 5.5 in comparison to other climbs in the area. Worth doing as either a warm up introduction to Joshua Tree rock, or for teaching beginners. Will do again next time in JTree. Nov 18, 2010
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.5
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.5
Second that on the thin pro. I brought fat stuff, but the OW was too wide for any of it! Instead, I used my smaller cams on a thin crack in the back. Nov 28, 2010
Chris Keefe
  5.5
Chris Keefe  
  5.5
Gotta agree with Will S - "This would be a good first wide crack."
Varied techniques, good enough gear, not too strenuous. A beginner might even have fun climbing OW! Mar 15, 2015

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