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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,879 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Jan 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts at the right end of the East Face of Trashcan Rock, facing the road and at the back of a small cove of rock. The very rightmost crack, just a few feet left of Left Sawdust Crack. A short, clean hand crack on good rock but a little meat-tenderizer inside. Not too bad though. Leans a little left and is a touch awkward for the grade but nothing to worry about. Not terribly memorable but a good warmup if you're in the area.

Protection

Hand sized, same for anchor.

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Not that great. Sep 10, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Nice crack, good rock, but only about a bodylength of climbing in the handcrack. Even by Josh standards it's way, way too short. Secure locker jams for the solo. Kind of like a miniature version of Gem, complete with extra coarse rock. Jan 10, 2008
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
  5.9
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Perhaps this just emphasizes the fact that I'm not 100% on my crack footwork, but I found this very hard for the grade, especially the first few feet of slight overhang. If you're absolutely secure on crack, though, it's one of the purest hand/fist cracks I've seen the the park, albeit short. Heard others say they had had a lot of trouble with it, also. Oct 27, 2008
KraigP
 
KraigP  
 
I liked it! Very easy with solid footwork and hand placement. I give a solid 2 stars as its too short for anymore stars. But it's a good warm up lead and a good lead for someone trying to learn how to place gear on a little bit harder crack. I suggest this route. Nov 19, 2008
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8+
The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack. Nov 28, 2010
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Not a bad little route, but it is a brutal little affair! Apr 5, 2012
brian burke
santa monica, ca
 
brian burke   santa monica, ca
 
i climbed this route. my hands hurt now. Mar 11, 2014
dnaiscool  
 
Grit-fest POS...You want a cool 5.8 crack, do Sail Away. Apr 18, 2015
polloloco
Boston
  5.8
polloloco   Boston
  5.8
Clean and fun hand jams. I thought it was pretty enjoyable for a quick burn. Jan 30, 2017
Kent Sullivan
  5.9+
Kent Sullivan  
  5.9+
Started out thinking this was going to be a super fun, easy hand crack, and it was immediately obvious I underestimated it. After placing a cam at head height from the top of the start boulder I tried to lay-back to the left and almost immediately my hands slipped and I punched myself in the face resulting in a pretty comical bloody nose. I lowered down to stop the bleeding and then I climbed it clean on the second round by hand and foot jamming the whole way up, ended up being my hardest trad lead so far, and everyone in my group agreed that it was way harder than 5.8 until the last guy to climb it lay-backed to the right and made it look stupidly easy.

Gear placements are bomber in the .75-2 camalot range, built my anchor off of the top of Left Sawdust Crack since there wasn't a whole lot of options directly off the top of this crack. Mar 29, 2018

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