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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,720 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Jan 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts at the right end of the East Face of Trashcan Rock, facing the road and at the back of a small cove of rock. The very rightmost crack, just a few feet left of Left Sawdust Crack. A short, clean hand crack on good rock but a little meat-tenderizer inside. Not too bad though. Leans a little left and is a touch awkward for the grade but nothing to worry about. Not terribly memorable but a good warmup if you're in the area.

Protection

Hand sized, same for anchor.

Photos

polloloco
Downey, CA
  5.8
polloloco   Downey, CA
  5.8
Clean and fun hand jams. I thought it was pretty enjoyable for a quick burn. Jan 30, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
Grit-fest POS...You want a cool 5.8 crack, do Sail Away. Apr 18, 2015
brian burke
santa monica, ca
 
brian burke   santa monica, ca
 
i climbed this route. my hands hurt now. Mar 11, 2014
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Not a bad little route, but it is a brutal little affair! Apr 5, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8+
The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack. Nov 28, 2010
KraigP
 
KraigP  
 
I liked it! Very easy with solid footwork and hand placement. I give a solid 2 stars as its too short for anymore stars. But it's a good warm up lead and a good lead for someone trying to learn how to place gear on a little bit harder crack. I suggest this route. Nov 19, 2008
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
  5.9
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Perhaps this just emphasizes the fact that I'm not 100% on my crack footwork, but I found this very hard for the grade, especially the first few feet of slight overhang. If you're absolutely secure on crack, though, it's one of the purest hand/fist cracks I've seen the the park, albeit short. Heard others say they had had a lot of trouble with it, also. Oct 27, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Nice crack, good rock, but only about a bodylength of climbing in the handcrack. Even by Josh standards it's way, way too short. Secure locker jams for the solo. Kind of like a miniature version of Gem, complete with extra coarse rock. Jan 10, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Not that great. Sep 10, 2006