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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,274 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first crack system on the left side of the east face. It becomes a chimney near the top. It's has a strenuous start. All in all a good warm-up for a day's climbing.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Woody Stark  
 
"Wallaby Crack" is a wee bit more difficult than 5.8. Jun 12, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Surprisingly good moves and the short approach makes this a worthwhile tick. Feb 9, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Tricky start. Sep 8, 2006
Mark L  
Tricky overhung start to get your feet 6' up (feels 5.8+) but moves to solid jams for the next 20 feet. Then the typical josh "what the he!!" sets in at a OW maybe 40' up. If you have a 4-5" piece and longs arms set something way back in the offwidth and hope your second can get it out. OW or semi-stem up another 8' or so and get to the top crack to set some good hand sized pieces for belay. Apr 30, 2007
Rodger Raubach
  5.9-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9-
The start (first 10 feet) is harder than 5.8; I'd give it a 5.9- and is strenuous. Nov 18, 2013
Griffin Costello
San Francisco
  5.8
Griffin Costello   San Francisco
  5.8
not that much fun. awkward flarring crack. small chimney. Dec 1, 2015
Tara Storter
Eagle River, AK
  5.8+ PG13
Tara Storter   Eagle River, AK
  5.8+ PG13
Onsight. First J Tree 5.8 lead. I would definitely give it a 5.8+ PG 13 because of little pro and potential ground fall at crux. Start climb with stout boulder. Once up you can place pro. This is the only place for pro before moving up to the short OW crux. No protection for this section or beyond. A fall here would equal a ground fall. To move thru the OW requires using a barely-there hand hold, swinging out to get a better position with the OW to move up and out. Albeit not a very hard move, but stressful considering ground fall potential. Once pass the OW continue up thru the chimney to pass under a boulder. Climb up over the boulder and finish by topping out on a nice slab finish. Good crack about 10 feet away for a belay. I would not lead this climb again. Not worth the fall potential. I’d give it a .5 star. May 5, 2018

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