Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,304 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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This is the first crack system on the left side of the east face. It becomes a chimney near the top. It's has a strenuous start. All in all a good warm-up for a day's climbing.


standard rack


Woody Stark
Woody Stark  
"Wallaby Crack" is a wee bit more difficult than 5.8. Jun 12, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Surprisingly good moves and the short approach makes this a worthwhile tick. Feb 9, 2004
Tricky start. Sep 8, 2006
Mark L  
Tricky overhung start to get your feet 6' up (feels 5.8+) but moves to solid jams for the next 20 feet. Then the typical josh "what the he!!" sets in at a OW maybe 40' up. If you have a 4-5" piece and longs arms set something way back in the offwidth and hope your second can get it out. OW or semi-stem up another 8' or so and get to the top crack to set some good hand sized pieces for belay. Apr 30, 2007
Rodger Raubach
Rodger Raubach  
The start (first 10 feet) is harder than 5.8; I'd give it a 5.9- and is strenuous. Nov 18, 2013
Griffin Costello
San Francisco
Griffin Costello   San Francisco
not that much fun. awkward flarring crack. small chimney. Dec 1, 2015
Tara Storter
Eagle River, AK
  5.8+ PG13
Tara Storter   Eagle River, AK
  5.8+ PG13
Onsight. First J Tree 5.8 lead. I would definitely give it a 5.8+ PG 13 because of little pro and potential ground fall at crux. Start climb with stout boulder. Once up you can place pro. This is the only place for pro before moving up to the short OW crux. No protection for this section or beyond. A fall here would equal a ground fall. To move thru the OW requires using a barely-there hand hold, swinging out to get a better position with the OW to move up and out. Albeit not a very hard move, but stressful considering ground fall potential. Once pass the OW continue up thru the chimney to pass under a boulder. Climb up over the boulder and finish by topping out on a nice slab finish. Good crack about 10 feet away for a belay. I would not lead this climb again. Not worth the fall potential. I’d give it a .5 star. May 5, 2018