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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Oct. 1989
Page Views: 2,239 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Near the right side of the central part of Atlantis Wall, look for a wide chimney (Unwiped Butt, 5.6). The Labyrinth is the first crack to the left of the Chimney -- about 6' to the left. Average climbing down low leads to some fun hand jamming up high.

Protection

Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may be useful for setting anchor on top.

Photos

Both photos on this page show what the 1992 vogel guidebook calls the labyrinth and say taurus is the crack just to the left of this route. (Right to left: unwiped butt/chimney, the labyrinth, taurus) It also calls the taurus a 5.6 Dec 12, 2016
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Route sorting note: Taurus is the rightmost climb on the Atlantis Wall - Right. It should be moved right of Unwiped Butt (snicker).

Our guidebook says Unwiped Butt is the left crack variation, and Taurus is the straight up variation, sharing the same start.

The chimney to the right of them has no name I've seen, but someone elsewhere mentioned using it the chimney as a downclimb. Dec 30, 2013
Grace C
Claremont, CA
Grace C   Claremont, CA
This climb absolutely eats gear, especially mid-sized nuts! Even though I found myself on the edge of my comfort zone a few times at the top, it was really reassuring to know that you can get bomber gear just about anywhere you want. So for someone looking looking to push it from 7s to 8s, this is great climb to tick off. Dec 15, 2010
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Took my first fall on gear near the top of this route (a #.5 camalot in a shallow crack...it held!)

A fun route, much like the other short routes on this wall, but the crack narrows, flares, and becomes shallow at the top. I believe that the crux is just before the last move. Jan 26, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
Fun route - I found this to have a few more exciting moments than Solar or Men - the two routes that bring a lot of folks over to this wall. Cool ledge to belay your second from. Mar 1, 2009
Smanson
Twentynine Palms, CA
5.7
Smanson   Twentynine Palms, CA
5.7
This is the last crack before the chimney on the right side of Atlantis Wall and a good climb. Protection to 2.5 inches. Dec 26, 2008

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