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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Jim Angione, Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Alan Bartlett & Cyndie Bransford, 3/88
Page Views: 3,707 total, 20/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Right in the middle of the wall, at its most accessible point (not that any of it is in any way inaccessible, but ...), there is a prominent Y-shaped crack formation. Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads (5.5) both start at the same location, but Solar Technology takes the left slanting crack, while Men With Cow's Heads goes more or less straight up the right-hand crack.

Easy but fun. A good beginner TR or lead.

Protection

Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.

Photos

Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.6
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.6
Great varied climb at the grade. Makes you wonder about other "5.5s" and "5.6s" at Josh that are much much harder.

Climbed this in mid-August, and despite the unbearable heat throughout the park, the shade on this route made it relatively comfortable. Aug 16, 2015
Ash Gambhir
San Diego, CA
 
Ash Gambhir   San Diego, CA
 
Fun lead , loved it and it seemed to be in the shade so not too hot either. Oct 28, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.6
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.6
I would definitely advise taking some slings to the top for extending your anchor. Rope drag can be really bad... I also recommend an oppositional piece at the top for your anchor due to the leftward angle of the climb. Fun climb to lead. Nov 14, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
 
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
 
Two fun routes. but this area is popular. Would suggest other routes n Atlantis that Vogel highlights in the new guidebook. Also, you may want to consider getting there early as it does get congested as the day goes on. Not unrealistic to knock out six routes as the walk down is primo! Feb 23, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Another great JT moderate! This and Cow's Heads made the weekend for me. And there are plenty of other nice lines close by. May 14, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
For my own part, I found this route to be really nice at it's grade. Apr 15, 2003