Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Jim Angione, Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Alan Bartlett & Cyndie Bransford, 3/88
Page Views: 4,209 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Right in the middle of the wall, at its most accessible point (not that any of it is in any way inaccessible, but ...), there is a prominent Y-shaped crack formation. Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads (5.5) both start at the same location, but Solar Technology takes the left slanting crack, while Men With Cow's Heads goes more or less straight up the right-hand crack.

Easy but fun. A good beginner TR or lead.


Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
For my own part, I found this route to be really nice at it's grade. Apr 15, 2003
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Another great JT moderate! This and Cow's Heads made the weekend for me. And there are plenty of other nice lines close by. May 14, 2007
Palm Desert, CA
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
Two fun routes. but this area is popular. Would suggest other routes n Atlantis that Vogel highlights in the new guidebook. Also, you may want to consider getting there early as it does get congested as the day goes on. Not unrealistic to knock out six routes as the walk down is primo! Feb 23, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
I would definitely advise taking some slings to the top for extending your anchor. Rope drag can be really bad... I also recommend an oppositional piece at the top for your anchor due to the leftward angle of the climb. Fun climb to lead. Nov 14, 2010
Ash Gambhir  
Fun lead , loved it and it seemed to be in the shade so not too hot either. Oct 28, 2014
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
Great varied climb at the grade. Makes you wonder about other "5.5s" and "5.6s" at Josh that are much much harder.

Climbed this in mid-August, and despite the unbearable heat throughout the park, the shade on this route made it relatively comfortable. Aug 16, 2015
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
A fun route to be sure. Left leaning crack makes you think. I thought the middle section was a bit sparse on protection opportunities. Something to think about ahead of time...I didn't and found myself on the runout side!

PS. This whole wall is in the sun during the early AM. Good place to warm up before hitting other Lost Horse climbs. Dec 10, 2018