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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Jim Angione, Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon and Alan Bartlett, 3/88
Page Views: 1,509 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb starts on (or near) an exposed root at the base of the wall. Thin face climbing past one bolt (about 12' up) to a thin finger/off-finger crack.

The lower section is harder than it looks!

Location

Ceremony ascends the face left of Solar Technology, near the left side of the central portion of the Atlantis face.

Protection

One bolt, plus thin rack to 2". Long slings may help with setting anchor on top.

Photos

Buddy Nielsen
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Buddy Nielsen   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Super fun! Would lead it but I'm not that good. Nov 8, 2017
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Chris (C Miller) is right, the original 1/4" bolt was replaced some time back with a 3/8" rawl 5-piece and metolius hanger. Mar 12, 2012
That bolt is 1/4". It has a newer style/thick hanger, but the bolt is not a stud style nor is it 3/8". Was on it yesterday. Mar 12, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I'd characterize this climb as .10a to the first bolt with the .10c crux right after the bolt. This is an exciting lead for sure! Jan 5, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b/c PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b/c PG13
I really enjoyed the moves on this climb. The first bolt is solid pro, but since it is up almost 15' I decided to top rope the climb instead of an onsight attempt at the grade. 15' of balancy .10c moves with no pro didn't seem like a lot of "fun" to me. However, I would say the grade is about right, and compares well with Big Bear and other climbs in the High Desert at the same grade. Maybe even a little soft compared with other J-Tree areas... I just say this to not let the grade scare you off! Great climb!

Amazing job with the drilling on the FA! I understand why the bolt is up that high - the stances below the bolt would have been nearly impossible to drill from. Nov 14, 2011
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
As Steve-o wrote, the moves are right off the ground and once you reach the single bolt it eases up considerably. But those few move to that bolt are alot of fun and though it eases up above it, it is still a fun and worthy climb. Jul 2, 2005
Steven Powers
  5.10c
Steven Powers  
  5.10c
another "one move wonder" climb after the bolt the climbing eases after the moe by the bolt, with a good spotter this route should not be dangerous at all once the bolt is cliped your in there, just hang one move then its 5.8 jugs and jams the rest of the way. good route. Oct 6, 2003
Murf  
Reled this the other day. To paraphrase a great movie, "Dave, you are so money". Drilling from stances that many people hate to clip from is true JT hard man style. Oct 6, 2003
I placed that 1/4" bolt while leading the FA from the one foot stance. It was a somewhat strenuous drill. I did have a decent spot though! May 15, 2003
C Miller   CA  
The bolt has been replaced with a 3/8" Apr 16, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I do not recall considering the bolt to be poor, nor do I recall seeing it and thinking "nice new bolt." All I can conclude from this is that it was unremarkable. If it was an odl 1/4" spinner, it must have been replaced. Apr 16, 2003
RTM
RTM  
Not to mention a little faith in that rusty little bolt!

or has it been replaced? Apr 16, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
This route is reall nice and a great intro to the complex and small moves required for 5.10-5.11 at J-tree. The moves are not terribly difficult once figured out, but require some thought and faith in small holds.

The move required to attain the position from which to clip the first bolt are difficult, although the crux is just above the clip. This is a potential ankle-twister. Apr 15, 2003