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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Dave Evans & Alan Bartlett, March 1988
Page Views: 2,017 total, 12/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Jan 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Five feet to the right of the route, Men with Cow's Heads, you will see a crack/seam. About ten feet off the ground is a triangular chockstone. Once you reach this, most people consider you to be over the crux. I found the opening moves to be rather easy. Above the triangular chockstone, wander up to a ledge, then pull a bulge with a hand crack on the left side. Once over the bulge you stand on a good ledge. Continue on up where there is a tricky step from the left side of the crack to the right side of the crack. Once there it's five feet to the top. You can sew this baby up.

Protection

This crack loves small to medium sized cams and nuts. There is a large boulder about 10' back from the edge. I slung a cordalette around it. it's bomber.

Photos

Chris D
the couch
  5.7
Chris D   the couch
  5.7
Ha ha! Todd, it's easy for me to downgrade this to 5.7...I can always tell if a lead is harder than 5.7 because I generally fall at least once! :) I actually was thinking of "A Snitch in Time," another "5.8" on Jailhouse Rock in IC as a yardstick. That climb kicked my ass, so if that route is 5.8, Wet Pigeon might be 5.4! I guess it's sort of apples and oranges...

I think all the routes on this wall (at least the ones that I can do) are fun. Amazes me that an area that's so popular today manged to avoid "discovery" until the late 80s Jan 29, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
You down-rating my climb?......What's wrong wid chew?.....(just kidding...). ....actually;....I don't even remember which climb you are even talking about;....just having fun with you.....When we did the first ascent of all those Atlantis climbs....we were climbing them all so fast ,....we couldn't even come up with names fast enough for the climbs....(thus the funky names of some of the climbs here....). I hope you enjoyed them.......a few of them are actually worth climbing, if I remember correctly......cheers... Jan 27, 2010
Chris D
the couch
  5.7
Chris D   the couch
  5.7
This is an easy climb for 5.8 at Josh. I'd really rate it 5.7 or so, and I don't normally suggest downgrading climbs. Compared to Right Duchess in Indian Cove (5.7) for example, this climb is a breeze. Definitely easier than life's a bitch and then you marry one, or mental physics, both of which go at 5.7.

Still, a lot of fun! Jan 26, 2010
Smanson
Twentynine Palms, CA
 
Smanson   Twentynine Palms, CA
 
According to Vogel in Rock Climbing: Joshua Tree West (AFalconGUIDE), the first ascent for this climb was by Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Dave Evans, Alan Bartlett; March 1988. The climb takes protection to 2 inches and is a lot of fun.

I found the start of the climb to be the crux and rest is easy! Dec 26, 2008
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
Fun stuff! I slung the horn just right of the topout for the TR and it worked great. Bring long cord or webbing (?15-20ft). Dec 8, 2008
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8
If this boulder for anchoring is the one I think it is (about a large piano size), you can actually rock (no pun intended) it out of place. I agree with the previous comment - it appears solid, but it does indeed move. Apr 23, 2007
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
Just a few months ago, there was a rather large loose block at the top (it looks solid on inspection but I think I saw it move) kind of a bummer because it looks like a solid placement for a #3 Camalot... so be careful where you put your top rope... Apr 5, 2007