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Pocket Pussy
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 1.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right
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Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Obvious Chimney T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01886, -116.18016 |
| FA: | Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, March 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,208 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Howland on Nov 26, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The route climbs through opening face moves leading to a section of thin and broken cracks just below the namesake crux. In the dark rock on the upper half of the route launch into a technical and balance sequence between a couple of pretty positive but reachy 3 finger pockets ending at a horizontal. Another body length of easier terrain will put you at the anchor.
Location
The route begins just left of Hot Crystals off a large block to the right of the enormous chockstone wedged against the wall. The crux section near the top of the wall is easily spotted as a clean face of darker rock. The route begins on the blocks directly below.
Descent: Head straight back into the gully and scramble down to climbers left to the approach trail leading back to the base of the wall.
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