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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, March 1988
Page Views: 718 total · 11/month
Shared By: Greg Howland on Nov 26, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route climbs through opening face moves leading to a section of thin and broken cracks just below the namesake crux. In the dark rock on the upper half of the route launch into a techical and balancy sequence between a couple of pretty positive but reachy 3 finger pockets ending at a horiziontal. Another body length of easier terrain will put you at the anchor.

Location

The route begins just left of Hot Crystals off a large block to the right of the enormous chockstone wedged against the wall. The crux section near the top of the wall is easily spotted as a clean face of darker rock. The route begins on the blocks directly below.

Descent: Head straight back into the gully and scramble down to climbers left to the approach trail leading back to the base of the wall.

Protection

Small cams and stoppers. Sling boulders or place hand size pieces for the anchor.

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