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Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right

Anointed Seagull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ceremony T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labyrinth, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Men with Cow's Heads T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pocket Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Self Abuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Technology T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taurus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unwiped Butt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet Pigeon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, March 1988
Page Views: 4,012 total, 22/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).

This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.

Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.

Protection

Standard rack to hand size. Long slings may come in handy for setting an anchor on top.

Photos

David Capo
  5.6
David Capo  
  5.6
This was my first trad lead. Absolutely loved it. Plenty of spots for pro, passive or active. Dec 29, 2014
BIG Climber
Irvine, CA
 
BIG Climber   Irvine, CA
 
This was my 1st trad lead and thought it was a great route for that purpose. I was able to place tons of gear, way more than needed, and from great stances. Just an FYI, the large bolder at the top of the route does rock a tad if being used as an anchor. It is a big rock, I used it as an anchor just fine, but I was able to rock it slightly back and forth. Jun 18, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
The first few feet off the deck are a bit trickier than a 5.5 should be...the rest of the route is fine at that level. I rated it 5.6 due to the fiddling around needed to protect the first 15 feet. The rest of the climb sucks in the pro. I was tempted to give it another star... Apr 5, 2011
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
 
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
 
Pretty fun route. Good protection as most posts already note. I would highly suggest looking at the other routes on this wall - Wegener's guide brings a number of folks out here. Mar 7, 2009
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.5
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.5
I second the "excellent beginner trad lead suggestion". It was my second lead ever in march 2005. I recall the crux for me was working up and beyond the big Y. I placed only passive pro (nuts and hexes). May 24, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Great climb for the rating but the start is tenuous. Felt more like 5.7 - JT is like that. So I averaged to call it 5.6.

A friend was lamenting that the Winger guide has brought much attention to walls like this. But I have to count myself as one of those that might never have discovered Atlantis without it. Thanks D! May 14, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A good climb. I think it is more like 5.6. Oct 16, 2006
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.5
Took a beginner friend out to this wall in Nov 05. Looking at the middle of picture, just about any line one takes up is the same rating with very good protection opportunities. It's easy to set up a TR from hiking up the backside. FYI, word is out about this area, and it is getting very popular (e.g., crowds). It's one of those semingly few places that has several easy to get to, easy to set up, easy to do routes. With that said though, a nice find. Dec 3, 2005