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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma
Page Views: 763 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This is the last route on the bluff, past the Big Roof. It starts on a dirt ramp and the crux is pulling off the ground. Fortunately, someone added a bolt at head level as you are starting to keep you from an awkward fall as you pull up. Have your belayer stand out or to the left a ways as there has been some loose rock that can pull off from higher up. At the top, trend left and clip the anchors from Arachnid Tendencies. Not stellar, but pretty good.

  • RCM&W #133, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

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rooooock
Oakland, California
  5.10d
rooooock   Oakland, California
  5.10d
I believe the guide book calls this 10d. I think it's somewhere in the 10c-10d range. I did find some beta that made the start not too hard. But I have good shoes so YMMV. Oct 26, 2014
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
  5.10c/d
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
  5.10c/d
the start on this thing is solid 5.11 till just past the second bolt. Then it steps down to 5.10a/b. Sep 16, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Correct. Sandbag! Aug 22, 2011
Evan Johnson
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10c/d
Evan Johnson   Minneapolis, MN
  5.10c/d
Start is not 10b (current consensus). Aug 19, 2011
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
  5.10a/b
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
  5.10a/b
Very awkward start that felt way harder then the grade, but once past it it climbs at 5.10 a/b. Apr 20, 2009