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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 1,197 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good route. From the Big Roof, walk back left and this route is the bolted line right after (to the left of) Needles and Pins. It's a good route, but there is an eye-opener move that is the crux at the second bolt. Don't blow it or you could meet your belayer at 9.8 m/s^2. Despite that, this is probably the best route in between 'Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood' and 'Needles and Pins'.

  • RCM&W #124, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Really a fun route...

Just make sure you keep your head about you until you're clipped into that 2nd bolt...

This would be a great route if it got more traffic...

Great friction....great movement Aug 30, 2009