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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma (1990)
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

The beginning of this route shares the dihedral and bolts with Talking with God. Climb up the dihedral to just under the roof. From here do a delicate traverse protected with a rusty, unreliable bolt (use long draws under the roof!). Pull the lip of the roof on the left, clip another bolt and climb to the shuts (some loose rock).

This isn't actually a bad route, the moves are interesting and the traverse is fun. However, given the combination of rusty bolts and rotten rock above the roof, until the bolts get replaced, climbing it should be considered very risky. If you fall from above the roof and the bolt rips, you could easily deck.

Protection

bolts. please use your own gear for toprope.

Photos

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A month or so ago (June 2015) I added a new bolt to protect the traverse. There are still some rusty ones after you do the traverse and climb up, but none as bad as that one under the roof.

If you're doing this route, you really should have a second top-rope up, cleaning the leader's quickdraws (it'd be sketchy to try to swing back under the roof and clean them yourself).

Also, lots of choss, both going up the corner and along the traverse. Jul 9, 2015
Be sure to traverse with your hands a couple feet below the roof. It's a whole different climb if you traverse at the roof. Unfortunately, there's still an old rusted out, possibly home made bolt that protects the traverse. I saw it hold a fall about 9 years ago. Who knows what would happen now. Oct 31, 2007
ferrells
  5.10c R
ferrells  
  5.10c R
Continuously sandy and dirty, and speckled with little rust spots (they used to be bolts - back in 1975(?)), climbing this route is an adventure. It's more dangerous than a couple of R rated 10's that I've done elsewhere, and ties with ESP for most dangerous route at the crag.
Could be a good route with fresh bolts and some traffic. Oct 25, 2007