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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 4,317 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Probably one of my favorite 10s at Barn Bluff. Needles and Pins is sustained 10a climbing for the majority of the climb. Start below a small overhang. Move right past the overhang, clipping two bolts along the way. Climb a somewhat slabby and run out (by Red Wing standards) section to the next bolt. Continue past this to more vertical rock to the left and gain the anchors.
  • RCM&W #126, p. 140.

Location

This route is the second bolted line left of the large roof, immediately to the left of Dances with Pete. Look for two bolts fairly close to the ground on a slightly overhanging arete.

Protection

5 bolts, to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.
I'm sure it's been a decade since I last led this route. It was, and still remains one of my favorites. The only moves I remember were the last sequence to the anchors. The bolts seemed far apart and the clips kinda scary. I just figured that since I haven't led anything for a while plus I've grown older with age and larger with food that these were the reasons it felt harder. After a decade of not climbing at the Bluff, I'm amazed that any of the routes still exist. My friend D.G. once proclaimed that the moves found at Redwing resemble moves found on actual climbs. I've always climbed here with this paradigm in mind and found the climbing enjoyable. May 18, 2009
Sevve, I climbing that route on nov. 2 also (was that when you climbed it?) and almost pulled that jug off. I was able to clip that third bolt not using it so its probibly better that it is gone to prevent anyone from really getting hurt.
To anyone wanting to climb this,
Yes that part is a little run out to the third bolt but nothing to insane, your belayer just needs to pay attention. I had troubles going for that five bolt. If you fall before that clip your looking at a 15 to 20 footer. There is a tiny crack though in between the 4th and 5th bolt, I was able to get a side ways nut but my blue tcu was to wide so if you have an alien or something to that with bring it.

Over all a solid climb and a must do if you want a little adventure and a sweet climb.

P.S. The bolts are run out for red wing standards. Nov 17, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Hey Sevve, glad you weren't hurt. I think anyone that climbs at Barn Bluff should absolutely be under no misconception that the rock there is bulletproof. Especially in the spring after the freeze-thaw, but really anytime, holds pull off. Some areas more than others, and the less popular routes more frequently. I can't tell you how many times I was sent flying as a result of a hold coming off at Red Wing in the 5 years I climbed there pretty frequntly. At least a dozen, although never on a popular route like Needles and Pins. Both climber and belayer really should wear a helmet, and know that anything you yard on potentially could let loose. Red Wing is most defintely not a gym, even if it feels like it a lot of the time. Of course you could drive to Rushmore or the Red if you want solid rock, but for a day trip that would be quite a haul... Peace and climb safe. Thanks for the warning and reminder for folks. Nov 3, 2008
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
Today I had the pleasure of pulling off a large chunk of rock that was the size of a softball on this pathetic route. Be warned, a critical jug on the way to the third bolt is now missing. Since this line is very featured (chossy) it may not change the grade of the route. On the other hand, it certainly may put it up to 5.10b or harder. The jug was probably helpful in getting to the third bolt, which has ground fall potential, so this already run-out bolt may be harder to clip. Moral of the story, this route really isn't worth your time-just look at the way it was bolted to see what its worth. Nov 2, 2008
this is my fav of the 10's at red wing, great moves and flow, and the crux before the chains makes this the perfect redwing route. Jul 1, 2007