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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 732 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

From the Big Roof, walk back left along the wall until you hit 3 bolt lines on a big flake. This is the left line. The crux is about 10-12 feet up where there is a strange sequence of shallow holds, several of which are often wet. After the crux it eases up and is blocky to the top. If I remember right, it shares anchors with the next route to the right, Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood. It's tricky and I think harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.

  • RCM&W #118, p. 138

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

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Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11a
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.11a
I think this is only 11a. I think that the jug 3 feet from the third bolt is on the route, and with that hold on, it's only 11a. If you take that hold off, you could make it a lot harder, but with some good technique, it really isn't all that bad. My partner and I onsited it. Aug 30, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.12a
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a
We'll make sure to disinfect ourselves next time. Sep 25, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Especially after you and Steve have been on it! Sep 24, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.12a
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a
It's definitely not the prettiest of them routes out there. Even for Red Wing standards. It kinda looks like you could catch some nasty STD from it if you're not careful :) Sep 24, 2007
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11d
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11d
Yeah! I also thought this was sandbagged. Real tricky on bad holds if I remember right. I think I'll say 11d.

Is there another Chris with an opinion? :) Sep 23, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Yeah, I really thought 11a was way sandbagged. It was almost worse trying it thinking it was 11a and getting shut down. You're probably right something broke. The rock is chossy enough that a big key handhold could have broken... Oh well, it is what it is. It's also the only route I've ever been dropped to the deck on, to have added insult to an injured ego. Hope you climbed something better than this climb today also... Sep 23, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.12a
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a
Something broke off this route? Chris, I climbed it together with Steve Leclerc and we both felt it was much harder than Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood just to the right. More like a solid 12a. Sep 23, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
This was almost as long a project for me as Living All Over Me, which I think means it's tricky. Hard to read from below and even while you're on it. Surprsingly difficult crux section. Jun 2, 2007