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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1992
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Find the trifecta of 'In the Pink', 'Quickdraw Moves to Hollywood', and 'Space Warp' down and left of the Big Roof, and then walk back right towards the Big Roof. This is the second bolted line you come to (the first being 'Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This'?). It's a decent 10 but like all the climbs in this vicinity, doesn't get enough traffic so there might be some loose stuff up higher. I thought 'Multiple Stab Wounds' and 'Why Doesn't...' were better routes but if you're going to the trouble of setting up in this area why not do this one also. It's a good afternoon to set up on 'Why Doesn't...' and move right and try to do as many as possible in a row as they are all moderate and fairly short.

  • RCM&W #122, p. 138

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Well there's less loose rock now: my climber pulled down some bigger than fist sized rocks toward me last weekend. The new anchors are higher than the originals by a couple feet, so now you climb into more chossy stuff than the originals. Oct 8, 2015
New anchors installed May 2015. Vegetation and loose rock removed. Ready for some love. May 17, 2015
Sam Bedell
Brooklyn, NY
Sam Bedell   Brooklyn, NY
Anchors still two rusty open hooks. Felt really sketch May 28, 2014
anchor is way manky....

this should be high on the list for replacement Aug 24, 2008
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.10a
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.10a
The anchors here are two rusty open shuts about 3 feet apart so make sure you have your own gear if you plan on top roping. Jun 30, 2008