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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1992
Page Views: 214 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006 with updates from Grayson "Chip" Bush
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Find Space Warp and then walk back towards the Big Roof. This is the first of several bolted lines that are more or less forgettable before you hit Needles and Pins, a stellar 10a. 'Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This' suffers from being surrounded by poison ivy and choss. It's actually a pretty good line, and with more traffic could be better. So give it a rip if you're out for a warm up or if a 10 lead is about your style.

  • RCM&W #121, p. 138

Protection

Bolts, careful clipping bolt #2, it was suggested that you could deck from here. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Grayson "Chip" Bush
  5.10c/d R
Grayson "Chip" Bush  
  5.10c/d R
I was drawn to this route because of the name; if it has good movement then I wanted to help clean it up. It is very dirty. If that were the only problem I’d be fine with it, but this route is absolutely garbage. The movement felt much harder than 5.10a, even considering the dirt and lack of traffic. Perhaps if I had the beta dialed it would feel like a 10b/c; as it was I felt like I was climbing really hard 10 or almost 5.11. Most importantly though, This route is dangerously runout to the 2nd bolt. I’m not an expert trad climber but there do not seem to be adequate placements you could use to protect the rated R deck potential here. All in all my experience on this route: a bug flew into my eye before the first bolt, I had to free solo to the second bolt, the holds continued to get dirtier, chossy-er and scarcer, and sand was dumped on me on the chain push. The route name is a troll and it would be more accurate to call this “Why Would Anybody Climb This?” May 28, 2018

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