Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1992
Page Views: 221 total · 1/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Jul 18, 2006 with updates from Grayson "Chip" Bush
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Find Space Warp and then walk back towards the Big Roof. This is the first of several bolted lines that are more or less forgettable before you hit Needles and Pins, a stellar 10a. 'Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This' suffers from being surrounded by poison ivy and choss. It's actually a pretty good line, and with more traffic could be better. So give it a rip if you're out for a warm up or if a 10 lead is about your style.

  • RCM&W #121, p. 138

Protection

Bolts, careful clipping bolt #2, it was suggested that you could deck from here. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

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Grayson "Chip" Bush
  5.10c/d R
Grayson "Chip" Bush  
  5.10c/d R
I was drawn to this route because of the name; if it has good movement then I wanted to help clean it up. It is very dirty. If that were the only problem I’d be fine with it, but this route is absolutely garbage. The movement felt much harder than 5.10a, even considering the dirt and lack of traffic. Perhaps if I had the beta dialed it would feel like a 10b/c; as it was I felt like I was climbing really hard 10 or almost 5.11. Most importantly though, This route is dangerously runout to the 2nd bolt. I’m not an expert trad climber but there do not seem to be adequate placements you could use to protect the rated R deck potential here. All in all my experience on this route: a bug flew into my eye before the first bolt, I had to free solo to the second bolt, the holds continued to get dirtier, chossy-er and scarcer, and sand was dumped on me on the chain push. The route name is a troll and it would be more accurate to call this “Why Would Anybody Climb This?” May 28, 2018