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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma (1990)
Page Views: 1,620 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Big Roof area is the farthest little wall as you walk east and north along the trail. Yup, it's a big roof. This route is pretty sweet, if only for the intimidation factor. It starts on the sandy wall directly below the obvious big roof. Don't blow it on the first clip or 2 as there is a back-breaker rock that you started on. Have your belayer clip into the rusty bolt on the huge block on the ground. Climb up and trend a little right just under the roof and try to catch a little (uncomfortable) rest. Clip the next bolt while below it, obviously. The crux is pulling the roof. There is a definite sequence that makes it easier but it's still not easy. If you're shorter than 5'10" good luck. Maybe try levitation.

  • RCM&W #129, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma. Bring a long runner for the bolt under the roof to reduce drag. Also, your belayer might wish to clip themselves into the bolt that is behind them on the huge fallen block to anchor in case you fall early on. There is a nasty back-breaker boulder that it would be conceivable although unlikely to hit if you bit it while clipping a bolt early.

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Mr. Ferrel so you know levitation? ;)

When I wrote that long ago, I knew a buncha taller folks who sent with ease and a few shorties who couldn't. I stand corrected. I'm 5'10" and I could barely pull it off, 5.11d seemed about right. Yup.

Bummer about your friend. That bottom section is total choss. Leading it on gear is for the clinically insane! May 25, 2010
ferrells  
 
May I just say, "Wow". First of all, I know someone who broke an ankle while leading this thing on bolts. Second, the rock completely sucks, unless you're looking to build a sandcastle, and you led it on gear. Finally, you downgraded it. Impressive. Most impressive.

Oh, and yeah, I'm not 5'10" no matter what I tell people, and I've climbed this thing a bunch of times. May 24, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11d
short folks shouldn't shy away from this route. good footwork and not a long reach is what's needed to pull the roof (the route's crux).

talking with god goes on gear. if you decide to lead this chosspile, you'll need small cams and small to medium nuts, as well as three 24" runners and some long draws.

up to the roof's lip, i used a .75 BD, an orange TCU, a yellow TCU, and three blue tcu's. the gear down-low looked solid. i cannot say the same for the stuff in the roof. those cracks are chossy and flared! in shape, they resemble hourglasses. that's not good for either cam or nut placements. but, eh, such is par for trad leading at red wang. haha.

the climbing above the roof is easy, but gear placements are infrequent and poor (again, chossy, flared, etc). i found it was easiest (quick, convenient) to run it out to the chains. if you do decide to protect that section, take small nuts and another orange/red TCU.

by the time you have read this comment, you could have climbed talking with god twice or done countless other activities that do not waste your time by discussing some obscure chunk of choss and the chossy route that climbs it. congratulations. you have wasted your valuable time, time you will never get back. yay!

now excuse me while i go SPRAY all over another mproject page. Oct 11, 2008