Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma (1990)
Page Views: 1,916 total · 12/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Big Roof area is the farthest little wall as you walk east and north along the trail. Yup, it's a big roof. This route is pretty sweet, if only for the intimidation factor. It starts on the sandy wall directly below the obvious big roof. Don't blow it on the first clip or 2 as there is a back-breaker rock that you started on. Have your belayer clip into the rusty bolt on the huge block on the ground. Climb up and trend a little right just under the roof and try to catch a little (uncomfortable) rest. Clip the next bolt while below it, obviously. The crux is pulling the roof. There is a definite sequence that makes it easier but it's still not easy. If you're shorter than 5'10" good luck. Maybe try levitation.

  • RCM&W #129, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma. Bring a long runner for the bolt under the roof to reduce drag. Also, your belayer might wish to clip themselves into the bolt that is behind them on the huge fallen block to anchor in case you fall early on. There is a nasty back-breaker boulder that it would be conceivable although unlikely to hit if you bit it while clipping a bolt early.

Photos