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Routes in Large Roof Area

A Deal with the Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arachnid Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climb Or Die S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dances with Pete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dumpster Does Duffels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish Furniture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In the Pink S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Multiple Stab Wounds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needles and Pins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Warp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Talking with God S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toll Free TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tub Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tummy Kittens in Space S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies and Nerds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Why Doesn't Anybody Climb This S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 1,785 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Fun route with a great and intense variety of moves that starts on the face to the left of Dumpster Does Duffles, the very last route on the bluff. It's a good idea to stick clip the first bolt. A strenuous lieback with fingertips on the face leads you to a sandy ledge where you can regain your composure. Then launch into the strange sequence of moves to get you up the bulge and into the corner, launch up and left to the sharp tooth, and pull up onto easier territory. Overall, a winner. Have heard several people say that they think that it's a little easier than 11d which the guidebook gives it. I'll probably stick with 11d. Let's get a concensus going here.

  • RCM&W #132, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

You can TR this route from the route to the right (Dumpster Does Duffles) if you lead that one.

Photos

Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
  5.11d
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
  5.11d
Very fun route. The roof section isn't has bad as it seems. The start is kind of strenuous with the crux going for the tooth or horn feature just above the big roof. Apr 20, 2009

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