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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,598 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 8, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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54 Opinions

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Description

A worhty climb up the arete on the far left side of the Phoenix Wall.

Climb easy rock past a few bolts to the arete. The bolts follow the left side of the arete but the easier climbing stays on the right. A hard reach from crimps hits at the top of the arete.

Location

Just left of Hissing Llamas

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
harder than 11a if using the small pocket sequence left of the arete Jun 30, 2016
No way this is 11a. Hands are shite and feet are even worse. May 28, 2016
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
 
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
 
If you stay on the left face and use only the slopey arete it definitely feels harder than 11a... or maybe I just suck at pockets. Mar 31, 2015
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.11
Every time I've seen donggua comment on something here, he says the climb is about two grades easier than it is rated; so when he says this is harder than 11a, truth.
I watched three people climb this totally different, then added my own variation, staying on the right of the arĂȘte until the little undergoochie. Every way was harder than 11a to me, but that's pretty awesome variety for a climb! Oct 22, 2014
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
I'm seconding Bryan's comment about the bees. The "wasp pocket" turns this climb from questionably worth it to absolutely not worth it in my book. Aug 18, 2013
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Tough pocket climbing that is great fun for Smith. I don't think it's overbolted or contrived. Check it out on TR after climbing Scary Llamas 5.8 to the right of it. Watch out for bees in the pockets mid/late summer... Jul 25, 2013
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
feels harder than an 11a staying entirely on the left side of the arete. the mini pockets are extremely hard for feet, maybe i just need to improve my footwork, but definitely sandbag for me Jun 19, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
contrived and horribly over-bolted May 3, 2012
419
Sacramento
 
419   Sacramento
 
Stay on the left side of the arete for the entire top section, there is one two finger pocket on the right side used to setup for the big move. In general, It is hard 2 finger pocket climbing with a few friction feet then a big move into a jug finish. Sandbag. Sep 11, 2011