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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,000 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 4, 2006 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

A very popular route at Phoenix Buttress. Easy starting moves becoming increasingly challenging as you move up the shallow dihedral. The difficulties culminate in the crux move navigating the bulge onto the slab finish.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just left of Fred On Air, in the shallow dihedral.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts with top rap anchors.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I found this to be a really fun route. The crux comes just at the right place at the top and makes a great finish.

This route isn't in the main Smith guidebook. Apr 5, 2006
grizz Burton
  5.10b
grizz Burton  
  5.10b
I enjoyed this route more than Phoenix. It starts out easy than becomes steeper and more technical half way up or so then stays on you until the anchors. I didn't find it to be as sharp as the new Select book describes. May 12, 2008
First climb ever at Smith. Fun and engaging at the top. Jun 9, 2008
Todd99  
Straight up fun! The rock is a little sharper than it is over on Morning Glory Wall. May 13, 2011
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
great route Jun 19, 2013
pdxuller  
 
Easily the best climb on the Phoenix wall. Oct 18, 2013
This has an x-ed block on it, and another loose flake, so beware.

Also, I saw it in the guidebook and it is named Jim Treviso Memorial Route. Oct 27, 2015
Todd DiAsio  
 
Large Pockets make this an enjoyable, moderate 10b. Well protected. Crux is an exposed move over a bulge at the top (look to the flake for solids holds). May 27, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
The bottom half is fun with good pockets and interesting moves that probably give this route it’s popularity. Crux is at the 7th bolt or above (possibly high stepping over the bulge). Gets tiring after 6th bolt where after the lovely stemming, there are uncomfortable laybacks. Last bit is puzzling for a short climber - if you are 5'6" the obvious pocket from a resting stance is reachable, any shorter and you need to pick one of two options to pull off before reaching it. Apr 4, 2018

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