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Routes in (3) Phoenix

Carabid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fred On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hissing Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
JT's Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
License To Bolt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Llamas on the Edge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phoenix S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Llamas Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,758 total · 38/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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302 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Arguably the finest 5.10a in the park, the Phoenix has great moves, high quality rock, and bolts just where you need them. This climb combines several powerful moves with a classic crimpy crux.

A cam or nut may be placed down low as the first bolt is a bit exposed.

Protection [Suggest Change]

quickdraws and possibly long slings for anchor to reduce drag.

Chains at top


Fun route with a good crux section. Can't wait to get on more routes tomorrow. Jun 9, 2008
Ian G.
Ian G.   PDX, OR
If the distance to the first bolt scares you, bring up a #3 cam. Apr 25, 2009
Phill T
Phill T  
not sure about best 10a in the park. avoid this one if you dont like cranking on monos. May 27, 2012
T Banch
Portland, OR
T Banch   Portland, OR
It gets a little run out after the last bolt to the anchors, but the climbing becomes very easy at that point. Aug 21, 2013
This route is fun and worth doing, but with respect to the OP, there is no way this is the best 5.10 in the park. Oct 10, 2013
Fresno, CA
nickehman   Fresno, CA
If you're feeling a little bold/bored and crafty, this thing goes on gear. It might be borderline PG13 but its all there with good stances. Standard rack up to 1" with tricams. Pretty fun to do it this way. Nov 11, 2013
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
Given how detached that flake looks, a cam behind it would be a poor idea, the bolt was easy to get to compared with many other sport climbs on neighboring walls, maybe 5.5-6 to that point (none of that crux-before-the-first-bolt *cough*ThePeanut*cough* nonsense) Mar 28, 2014

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